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Exhaust leak extreme pain
https://mail.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4578		 Page 2 of 2
Author:  Wild1_Robertson [ Sun Dec 08, 2002 7:32 am ]
Post subject:  Hi I have same problem leaky exhaust
Found a "correct" exhaust manfold in junk yard but it fell apart when unbolted. Might try to cut mine flat and change to the correct bolts ( has plane bolts ) Found supply for rebuild kit for the heat riser.. Will keep looking for now.
I have a 65 /6 what years manifolds fit?
Author:  Chuck [ Mon Dec 09, 2002 12:53 pm ]
Post subject: 
Here is the way I have assembled the two manifolds:

1) Put the 3 manifold to manifold bolts in "snug" only.
2) Put the manifolds on the head WITHOUT a gasket.
3) Tighten the center intake manifold nut ONLY.
4) Tighten the 3 manifold to manifold bolts to full torque. The exhaust will "slide" up the head as you tighten the bolts.
5) Remove the manifold set and re-install with a gasket.

After step 4 you can check to see if there are any gaps between the manifolds and the head. I have never used any sealant using this method, but I have also not had to deal with badly warped manifolds.

One more thing to check is the clearance between the exhaust pipe and the block. I have seen the pipe so close to the block (sometimes touching) that the engine vibration will break the seal between manifolds. In this case you need to get the pipe re-welded before you tighten it up all the way.
Author:  jack [ Tue Dec 24, 2002 10:56 am ]
Post subject:  Success, finally
After the fifth try I finally have successfully installed my manifolds without any leaks! I used all the advice posted recently. I had to cut and rebend the choke stove link because I used a newer exhaust manifold with its choke with an older intake manifold (this is not mentioned in the newly posted article). I had to drill out my older intake manifold to accomodate the larger inboard manifold to manifold bolt. And most important of all I used copper based sealant, manifold to manifold and manifolds to gasket and exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe.. BTW the maifolds both checked out very straight with a straight edge but I still needed the sealer. I am so pleased to have the quiet back and no fumes in the car. I hope I don't have to do that again. Thanks for all the advice.
Author:  Doctor Dodge [ Tue Dec 24, 2002 11:04 am ]
Post subject:  Way to Go!!
Good work Jack,
You may want to re-torque everything after a few heat cycles, do the retorque while the engine is warm and be careful, just a light "snug down" to be sure nothing loosened-up.
DD
Author:  Wild1_Robertson [ Tue Dec 24, 2002 3:46 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Success, finally
Quote:
I had to cut and rebend the choke stove link because I used a newer exhaust manifold with its choke with an older intake manifold (this is not mentioned in the newly posted article).
So what is the deal here I have a 65 /6 the exaust manifold from a later model with the early choke pull off, & it LEAKS, also the exhaust dampner spring is broken, so I was looking for a new exhaust manafold. I have aquired NOS a 65 choke pull off and & NOS Carter Carb.

Question do I need a 64 to 69 exhaust manifold to use the stock choke pull off I paid too much for, or can I use a later one, it looks like it will mount on later manifold. :?

here is the carb. it is listed as truck only but looks just like mine. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 68038&rd=1

Here is the choke pull off or thermostat http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 1866237504

Thanks for any help and Happy Chirstmas :D
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