To avoid a large-gauge, always-energized cable I have put a Ford starter relay near the battery and put the battery switch in the body power feed. This adds some complexity, but it becomes much less likely you'll burn holes in the body or kill the battery itself if the cable chafes. The small starter wire gets connected to the battery cable terminal at the starter and the starter solenoid wire gets extended to the rear where the battery and solenoid/relay/contactor live. Yes, the alternator power still has to run to the battery side of the switch or you have to interrupt the alternator field, but how do you do that with an internally regulated alternator?. This layout makes more sense in road racing cars where the battery switch is within the driver's reach rather than the NHRA-mandated position. For the NHRA if you don't need more weight over the rear axle it's cheaper, lighter and more simple to just put a small battery in the engine compartment avoiding a switch and long cables completely.

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Joshua

I guess there always more than 6 ways to do everything.

I like the way the way Charlie is relating it to me. I don't need another solonoid, and I do have an external V.R. I will make sure my wire is well routed and protected (convolute and rubber grommets) and I don't see the shorting out being a great issue of concern for me if that wire is protected.

I don't mean to offend anyone, I just have a very hard time with even the simplest electrical stuff.

Thanks to all,
Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

No offense taken whatsoever. I'm electrically and mechanically gifted and have chosen different methods for different purposes. If you don't need the battery outside the engine compartment it's cheaper and lighter to keep it in there, but the weight distribution does suffer. If there is no heater in the car I'd be tempted to put the battery on the firewall where the blower motor usually resides.

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Joshua

Thanks Josh!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

My pleasure. It's these discussions where we bring forth the different ways of accomplishing something where the creativity comes out and each builder can chose a method that best suits their need. Questioning underlying assumptions can be helpful and keep us on target. Moving the battery to improve weight distribution adds weight from the long cables and complexity due to the rules. If you can hook up the car reliably without a battery in the trunk and can spare the space under the hood then keep battery near the starter, keep the cables short and keep the total weight down.

For my front wheel drive road racing car moving the battery rearward helps put a little weight on the rear tires which is good for high speed handling, but this would not be ideal if the car were used for drag racing.

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Joshua

I want to gain a little room up front around my D/S alternator as well as get a little more weight over the rear wheels. I did have some traction issues this year when I went to my 4.56 rear and I was only running 13.8 @ 95. Traction will get worse when I install my 4-speed and try and break into the 12's on motor down the road. I have all the cables and wires to do it too, so the only thing I need to buy is the actual switch itself. I have kind of resolved myself to mounting it in the panel just below the trunk lid, even though I don't really want to cut a whole in the nice paint!! But if I put it under the bumper, then I have the wires routed out of the trunk to the switch and hanging down underneath.

If they were not so much more expensive I would get a Flaming River with the rod actuator and run it right through the center of my right rear back up light that has a crack lens anyway!

Thanks again!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

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Rick; NHRA doesn't require you to get a manufactured switch to do it that way. It's OK to fabricate something up yourself with whatever master switch you do get, as long as it's clearly labeled.
You could whip up a bracket to mount the switch in the proper place inside the trunk, and fabricate your own push/pull rod. Add a big knob labelled "PUSH OFF", and that will meet the NHRA requirements.

Roger