OK, would be good for me to know.

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Chuck Rivers, Webmaster

You say the regulator is for the gas and temp? I got the gas to work but it and the temp do this weird "pulsing" thing. The seem to be on, then off, then on, then off you get the idea. The gas gauge takes a long time to come all the way up. Could this be the regulator?

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"Nothing in all creation is hidden from God's sight. Everything is uncovered and laid bare before the eyes of Him to whom we must give account."

Yep sounds like it... sounds like its time to do some creative problem solving....

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Mike C
http://cuda.iclownz.com
67 - Barracuda Coupe - 225 - Automatic

The regulator does send a pulsed 4-5 volt power to the gauges. This is the way it was designed. If the gauges read correctly after a few minutes, you might just leave it alone. If the gauges seem low then it is time to thing about a regulator. If you have the external type, it is an easy swap. If your regulator is internal, well...

I suggest hooking up a voltmeter to the regulator output to check what the voltage actually is. If it pulses to 4 volts then it should work OK. If it is below that then the gauges will probably read low. It's up to you to decide whether you can live with it if you have the internal type regulator.

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Chuck Rivers, Webmaster

Thanks again! I'll see what happens when I have the car running for a while.

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"Nothing in all creation is hidden from God's sight. Everything is uncovered and laid bare before the eyes of Him to whom we must give account."

Chuck, looked at some of my old wiring diagrams, about the instrument voltage regulator. This is from mitchell manuals, not mopar factory manuals.
separate regulator: 65 valiant, 65 Barracuda, 65 Dart, 66 Valiant, 66 Dart,
67-71 Dart, 67-70 Valiant
Regular, integral with gas gauge: 66 Barracuda, 67 & 68 Barracuda

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

A good start, but not entirely accurate. My dad's Dart 270 has the internal regulator like the 64. In fact, we put a 64 gauge in it until we get the 65 gauge fixed. They are the same except for the face plate. Maybe they changed mid-year.

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Chuck Rivers, Webmaster

I know that the 63-64 & 65 Darts have the voltage limiter inside the gas gauge but the 66 Dart has it external, plugged into the back of the PCB.

BTW: The voltage limiter is basically a set of contact points, held by a bi-metallic spring and a heater "coil" wrapped around it. The points close when bi-metal cools, this completes the circuit so current flows thru the coil around the bi-metal, heats it so points open again and the current stops, bi-metal cools, points close again. The happens every few seconds and you can see the pulses on a volt meter. I have always been amazed that these limiters last as long as they do, they have electrical contacts, moving parts and hair-like wires, lots of stuff just waiting to fail.
Solid state technology is a much better way to get the voltage reduction job done so change over if the factory limiter gives you any trouble.
DD

This is why I stated, NOT Mopar manuals. After market manuals, have been known to have errors.
Chuck, is there any possibility to have a data base similar to the parts data base, where people that have different cars, can add the correct info about the regulators, based on actually looking at it?
My 65 valiant has the separate one, my 66 Cuda is integral, need to look at my 65 Cuda

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

That wouldn't be easy, but we can collect the data, make up a spreadsheet and export it to an HTML table. Then we can post it with the articles. I suggest members add their info here and I can compile it. Take a look at http://www.slantsix.org/articles/instru ... cation.htm

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Chuck Rivers, Webmaster

Now y'all are scaring me!
The fuel and temp gauges had become intermittent - They would work on one trip and not on the next. So ...
I put a new regulator in my '64 Valiant, using previous posts (I love Search!), Chuck's article, the service manual, and a little interpretation. I used the 7805A regulator, Radio Shack PN 276-1770, $1.49. The printed circuit board is different from the one used in the article, but I looked for the 'A', 'I', and 'S' on the PCB. Bottom line - it has worked since Saturday, so I guess I got it right.
I have jpgs, if someone wants to post them.

I'll post 'em, just e-mail them to me at sl6@omnipages.com. Good work!

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Chuck Rivers, Webmaster