Here’s an update. I got an RT-ENG IVR3 regulator for the D100 because I didn’t trust the fuel gauge regulator after buying a new $$ temperature gauge. Fairly simple install, with the hardest part being opening the fuel gauge and disabling the internal regulator. I bought the recommended SMP VR128 because of the dancing ammeter and flickering lights. The lights are on relays, but there was still the dance and flicker. I kind of gave up and then I experienced random bouts of over charging. As the RPMs increased the ammeter would go up and I figured that wasn’t good, specially after metering 17+ volts. Then I would let it idle and everything was fine. I was curious though because even when it was working it was showing between 14.5 and 15 vdc on the meter at the battery and the alternator and the ignition. Kept trying to find loose wires/ bulkhead connectors but no dice. Then I happened upon this ground plane thing, which I had never heard of, implemented it, but again no dice. Then my IVR3 got fried and the gauges went dead. Dang!! So I stuck the old mechanical regulator back on and viola, magically everything is great. No dancing, no flickering and metering between 13.5 and 13.7 vdc. I’m guessing that the ground plane fixed the dance (ground wire directly from alternator to regulator to battery). Probably got a bad VR128. I had to get another IVR3 but the gauges are back and I think that the old IVR3 gave itself up to save them. Yayyy!
With that issue finally solved I decided to add an oil separator/ catch can to the D100 and Dart since they are so cheap, $20 on Amazon and It intuitively sounded like a good idea. Did the D100 first and the idle has smoothed out and it seems to start easier. Just did the Dart, so don’t know if the same will apply. I added check valves to keep boost from entering the cans.
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D100CatchCan.jpeg [ 212.63 KiB | Viewed 5643 times ] |
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DartCatchCan.jpeg [ 184.67 KiB | Viewed 5643 times ] |
