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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2003 4:26 pm 
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Location: Alameda, CA
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I recently bought a 63 Dart 270 convert that I want to upgrade from points to Electronic. My question is this, other than price, is there any difference between using the Pertronix upgrade or using a used dist from a newer car? It would seem that the Pertronix system would be much easier to install and allow for a cleaner engine compartment but is there a perfomance difference?

I have been reading through old posts and there is a lot about installing both these systems and how much better they were than points but nothing on which performs better.

My plan is to eventually add a Super Six manifold, 2bbl carb, and dual exaust (Dutra ?). I am looking for good gas milage over power however I'll take all the power I can get without hurting the milage :P

Thanks,

Nick


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2003 6:19 am 
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My bet is that a pertronix with a good coil will give you as good or better performance than a factory elec ign system, and it's easier to install/look at. I have no personal experience with the pertronix, but this is based on experience with many other ignition types.

Lou

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2003 9:01 am 
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I have used the OEM Mopar elect. ignition. and the MSD stuff, both work better the the points, I don't see much difference "on the timeslip" between those two set-ups. I have never used the Pertronix stuff.

FYI, I have both boxes on the dragcar and can quickly switch from one box to the other, the same distributor and coil remain in place.
I would say that the most improvement will be found in the distributor's advance settings and in the coil but what triggers the spark does not make much difference until you get into the high RPMs.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2003 12:17 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2003 3:59 pm
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Location: Alameda, CA
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So it sounds like I could go with the Pertronix and upgrade the coil and that would give me a comparable to better system to the stock electronic. Any suggestions for the coil? I have one from a 74 Dodge Coronet that ran electronic.

Actually, the better question is; what are the characturistics of a good coil for my purposes and is there a way to test for them? Is hotter always better or are there ranges of voltage and amps that are better for different applications. Keeping in mind that I want mileage over power, but as much power as I can get without hurting mileage, what should I be looking for?

Thanks for your help!

Nick


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2003 1:44 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 2:50 pm
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Location: Spokane Valley, WA
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Quote:
So it sounds like I could go with the Pertronix and upgrade the coil and that would give me a comparable to better system to the stock electronic. Any suggestions for the coil? I have one from a 74 Dodge Coronet that ran electronic.

Actually, the better question is; what are the characturistics of a good coil for my purposes and is there a way to test for them? Is hotter always better or are there ranges of voltage and amps that are better for different applications. Keeping in mind that I want mileage over power, but as much power as I can get without hurting mileage, what should I be looking for?

Thanks for your help!

Nick
I put an MSD Blaster 2 coil in my truck and it's outstanding. I plan on putting this into the Dart I'm working on also, along with a 6AL. Here's a thread I started a while back on using MSD parts as well:
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4606

Should give you a few other options to consider...

_________________
'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2003 10:56 pm 
I have a Pertronix,MSD Blaster2 Coil,and it runs perfect.Cant say enough about these 2 products.While your at it add a electronic voltage regulator.

Johnny Z


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2003 12:29 pm 
I decided to go with the Pertronix and installed it last week using my original coil. However, since I adusted the timing (Still not quite right since the correct adjustment is just past the adjustment limit; timing chain stretch?), changed the dist cap and wires (There had been some arcing in the cap), and adjusted the valves (They were very off) it's hard to say what it did. The engine runs much better (Strange) sounds smoother during acceleration, has more power, and is quieter. It still has a rough idle but I think that might be a vaccum leak or blockage somewhere. My guess is that the improvements were due to all of these things.

I think I will upgrade to electronic voltage reg since I don't like the lights flickering during stops and from what I have read, it would help protect my new Pertronix system from voltage spikes.

Nick


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2003 2:22 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Spokane Valley, WA
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Quote:
I decided to go with the Pertronix and installed it last week using my original coil. However, since I adusted the timing (Still not quite right since the correct adjustment is just past the adjustment limit; timing chain stretch?), changed the dist cap and wires (There had been some arcing in the cap), and adjusted the valves (They were very off) it's hard to say what it did. The engine runs much better (Strange) sounds smoother during acceleration, has more power, and is quieter. It still has a rough idle but I think that might be a vaccum leak or blockage somewhere. My guess is that the improvements were due to all of these things.

I think I will upgrade to electronic voltage reg since I don't like the lights flickering during stops and from what I have read, it would help protect my new Pertronix system from voltage spikes.

Nick
Upgrading to an electronic voltage reg is HIGHLY recommended. A Neihoff can be gottan at Schucks for about 15 bucks, so it's a cheap and worthwile upgrade.

BTW, where did you get the Pertronix distributor?

_________________
'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2003 11:04 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2003 3:59 pm
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Location: Alameda, CA
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Actually, the Pertronix ignitor replaces the points in the original distributor. It doesn't require adding a ballast resistor, ECU or extra wiring like I would have had to do if I had used a second hand or new electronic distributer. Very easy to install and, from what I can tell, is just as good as if I replaced the distributer. At $65 (That includes shipping) it was a little more expensive than if I had got a set-up from a junkyard, but the ease of installation and reduction of wires and parts made it worth it to me.

I bought it online through the Car Shop in Illinois.

If I replace the mechanical volatage regulator with electronic will I also have to replace the alternator? I seem to remember reading something about that in another thread.

Nick


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2003 11:34 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Spokane Valley, WA
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Quote:
Actually, the Pertronix ignitor replaces the points in the original distributor. It doesn't require adding a ballast resistor, ECU or extra wiring like I would have had to do if I had used a second hand or new electronic distributer. Very easy to install and, from what I can tell, is just as good as if I replaced the distributer. At $65 (That includes shipping) it was a little more expensive than if I had got a set-up from a junkyard, but the ease of installation and reduction of wires and parts made it worth it to me.

I bought it online through the Car Shop in Illinois.

If I replace the mechanical volatage regulator with electronic will I also have to replace the alternator? I seem to remember reading something about that in another thread.

Nick
That's interesting. I was under the impression that the Pertronix was a complete distributor. Did you have ot do anything about setting the dwell or anything like that when you put it in?

As far as the voltage regulator, it's plug n' play. No need to do anything with the alternator. Though highoutput is always an option if you plan on adding any high current stuff later. Always nice to have amps to spare :twisted:

_________________
'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2003 1:56 pm 
The system is made up of the ignitor that fits onto the original breaker plate , a magnetic sleeve that fits under the rotor on the distributer shaft, and a new rotor. The only setting that needs to be made is the space between the ignitor and the magnetic sleeve. Connect the negative wire to the negative terminal on the coil and the positive to the ignition switch power to the coil before the original ballast resistor and that's it.

Very easy and doesn't take up any extra room in the engine compartment.

I had actually gone to a junkyard and had pulled a electronic dist., ballast resistor, and wiring harness from a 74 Coronet prior to buying the Pertronix. The car didn't have an ECU and since I was still looking at having to buy that, the thought of having all the extra parts and wiring, and no apparent performance gain, changed my mind.

Pertronix also sells a coil (The Flame-Thrower) that I might upgrade to for consistancy. According to Pertronix, the coil should have a minimum of 1.5 ohms of resistance or an additional ballast resistor is recomended. Their Flame Fhrower coil has that resistance and is rated at 40,000 volts. Any suggestion of a better coil to use than that?

Nick


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 Post subject: 40Kvolts?
PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2003 9:14 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: Seattle, WA
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You do know that if you don't need 40kv to jump the spark gap, you'll never see that hot a spark.

_________________
'66 Cuda 225/4spd
'66 Dart GT convertible 225/auto
'64 Dart GT 340/4spd


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2003 11:12 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2003 3:59 pm
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Location: Alameda, CA
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So if I understand this correctly, if I don't advance the distributer, and open the spark plug gap in order to get more power, there is no reason to get a high voltage coil. If that's the case, is there any reason to switch from the original coil?

Nick


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:15 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 2:50 pm
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Location: Spokane Valley, WA
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Quote:
So if I understand this correctly, if I don't advance the distributer, and open the spark plug gap in order to get more power, there is no reason to get a high voltage coil. If that's the case, is there any reason to switch from the original coil?

Nick
Using an aftermarket coil with an electronic system would allow for the elimination of the ballast resistor (would say on the coil packaging if the ballast resistor is needed I think).

IIRC, the main purpose for the resistor is to keep from burning out a stock Mopar coil and to keep from burning the points.

Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong :P

_________________
'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 22, 2003 6:52 pm 
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A word of warning here. The Pertronix Ignitor is designed to run with a stock ballast resistor. From what I've heard, if you bypass the resistor (even with a higher voltage coil) and are running an Ignitor, you will burn the Ignitor out. I'm not sure about cases where the Ignitor is being used as a trigger for an MSD ignition or other aftermarket amplifier.

_________________
"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair


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