I've been keeping my '77 Volare wagon with it's 225 /6 and single barrel holley carb running beautifully for the past few years, while my mechanic friends mocked my aged engine, yet when their newer cars broke down, I'm always the one picking them up in the trusty slant. I get my praise from the old hands at the parts stores and the retiring mechanics from the local garage. Seems my generation doesn't remember what amazing engines these are, so I'm thinking it's time to put them in their place. I've heard the race track in the nearby city has an amateur race night every now and then... my friend was talking of taking his recently purchased Camaro SS down there, and I want to have something to take down there, too, and hopefully give him a run for his money.

I've been looking around for a /6 block to start working on in my garage in my spare time, but I'm really not sure what kind of block to start with, or what to do with it... I seem to recall a couple years ago reading something about overboring the slant and using larger pistons and valves (I think it was something about Chevy pistons and Ford valves with minor modifications). I've also read about HyperPak, but I'm not sure if that applies to increased-bore engines.

Anyway, if anyone could give me suggestions on what kind of block to start with and some good parts and mods to make it nice and ballsy - a street muscle car, I'd appreciate it, and in the mean time, I'll keep searching the forum.

Hi Nabby,

Go through the Articles section while your reading. Just go to the Home button up top, then select articles. Read this information, then figure out a realistic budget for youself.
Do you want to spend $1500 or $15000? My long rod stroker engine alone went over $4k. An EFI turbo project has the potential of costing much more.
I generally figure out an Estimate, then multiply by the "CJ constant." (Estimate X 1.6 = Actual.) This is usually in the ball park.

This isn't like building a small block chevy. Parts aren't laying around in the bargain bins at flea markets, so it's going to cost more for any parts you have to order.

Good solid power can be arrived at from many different directions. Research them all before you get started. Figure out where you want to go with the motor, and build accordingly.

The block most folks prefer is the "BH" for performance builds.
This is for strength primarily.
For a mild street/strip engine, it's not really that critical. There's been interest in building cast crank race engines as well to take advantage of the lighter crank shaft. Choices.
There was a Nitrous F-body out there last year running a 100 Shot on an otherwise stock setup. Great performance, very little up front cost. Just fill the bottle and go.

Most of your build time should go to research. Figure everything out first! Once you have the plan, then build it. Changing things in the middle of the build will be costly!

It's all good fun!

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Are you trying to compete with the '98 and newer LS1 Camaro SS? If so you're in for an uphill battle. Were you aware that the LS1 Camaros and Firebirds typically run mid 13 second 1/4 mile ETs and your wagon is probably around 21 seconds? My '67 Valiant ran mid 19s stock and runs low 17s after about $1000 in upgrades with mostly used parts.

If you're serious about that level of performance you're better off starting with a lighter car. Regardless it's going to take serious time, effort and cash to achieve reliable low 13 second ETs.

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Joshua

Don't let Josh completly get you down though, this can be done. However, he is trying to warn you it will be difficult and will take more money than some other engines to get in that competition level. For slants there seems to be a couple different benchmarks which is different than the v8 crowd, so plan to work off that as well. For example the first major benchmark is clicking off a 15 second time, than 13's is a whole other level, and less than that and you probably know more about engines than I do
So do lot's of reseach and plan on either going nitrous, turbo, or supercharger. EFI is sweet, but is a headache at times. Last, Erson and K1 have been in heavy cooperation with us to make some slant goodies.

Does this picture from the article on Turbocharging strike you as dual exhaust and twin turbo? Because that was an idea I was kicking around... I can't really tell what that thing is on the front header...

I wasn't trying to kick sand in your face, but to inform you of thr realitites of the situation. It's not impossible to do, but if you aren't going to do most of the fab and engine work yourself then you're likely to end up spending more than your buddy with the Camaro.

One turbo is usually cheaper than two and one is certainly easier to plumb. The picture shows turbos form the Chrysler Turbo I engines wired to Dutra Dual exhaust manifolds. That rough mock up was done by Dutra himself.

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Joshua

I don't think you were kicking sand, everyone has to tell the new guys what they're in for! A single turbo would be better, simpler and I seriously doubt you'll notice the faster spool if you size it correctly.
Do some searching for both turbo's and superchargers. The supercharger route seems easier to me, so that's the way I want to go. Also, rear end gears will really help your car off the line.

well, that, and a single turbo will allow you to have an engine with electric start....

Look at where that rear turbo is located...

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Also notice the turbos are just "wired on" for show, not go.

Did you notice that someone noticed (and mentioned this) before you?

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Joshua

I do now.

1000 bucks for low 17's? a 300K miles slant with no oil pressure at idle went 18.25 stock, no dizzy carb, no upgraded ignition, 225/70-14 tires on all 4. this being said when i first got it it went 20.20, so with NO money and time you can go alot.

that being said im now at 14.25 but if a track reopens near me im in the 13's street driven... that starts taking money...

EDIT:
boy i dug that up and didn't even know it!

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1965 Plymouth A/FX 512ci (under construction)
1968 Dodge Dart SL6 14.25 @ 91.5 1.91 60'
1973 Dodge Dart SL6 Stock
Killer Bee's Member Since 09'
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=128702
http://www.youtube.com/user/805moparkid

What you didn't want to do is run up against Josh's car on a road course Ed.
His car was set up a bit differently, with a lot of heavy duty suspension upgrades, full interior and various other creature comforts. It had quite a bit of weight due to that. It really wasn't a drag car. Three on the tree, IIRC as well.

Going around a corner was a bit "Different" in that car!

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

totally agree! i given we were talking draggin i thought thats what he was going for...

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1965 Plymouth A/FX 512ci (under construction)
1968 Dodge Dart SL6 14.25 @ 91.5 1.91 60'
1973 Dodge Dart SL6 Stock
Killer Bee's Member Since 09'
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=128702
http://www.youtube.com/user/805moparkid

Check out clifford performance.com thats all you need to know they have owsome parts for slant sixes.

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I like how faster and faster the slent six goes in the quarter mile.