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| What kind of bearing? https://mail.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=54398 |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Thu Jan 23, 2014 11:21 am ] |
| Post subject: | What kind of bearing? |
For you hard core racers; What kind of bearings are you using in your race motors? I will start gathering parts for my K1 motor this year and would like to have your recommendations. Also any good places to purchase them? This will be a K1/Wiesco big bore with Jeffrey head and 4 speed 4.56 gears if any of that matters. Looking to go shopping for a 12.99 on motor. Rick |
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| Author: | Slanteast [ Fri Jan 24, 2014 6:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hey, I have a couple of questions: When you say big bore, do you mean 100 thou over or bigger? What compression will you shoot for? Will this be a race only motor? I a curious about the bearings as well. Thanks Derek |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Fri Jan 24, 2014 9:34 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I'm afraid I don't have a lot of preference here. I have heard of bad experiences with Fed Mog and Sealed Power brngs. I run Clevite77 or Michigan77 trimetal in all my motors. Run the clearances looser (0.018 - 0.025", a bit looser in this range on mains than rods) than the factory range (0.0005-0.015"). Cast crank motors will take a bit more clearance yet, from what I understand. I have only run stock config (no "full groove"), but others like to run those. Gary Bruner and maybe Doc take the non-grooved half and chamfer a partial groove (maybe 15-25% of the way around, extending the groove in the direction of crank rotation (dremel/die grinder by hand). FWIW, I do not have any "full race" motors, only street/track designs. I limit RPM to 5600-6200 depending on which motor and which parts. 6200 is the limit I have self imposed for the new 64 Dart K1/wiseco motor. Lou |
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| Author: | CNC-Dude [ Fri Jan 24, 2014 10:23 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Clevite, or a true race bearing is what you need to use Rick. But keep in mind that most bearing companies offer both a street and race bearing, and many peoples failures are often because they base their selection on their pocketbook instead of what they really need and choose the wrong ones for their application. An H-series Clevite bearing would be more condusive for your needs, while the P-series might be ok for very mild performance builds, but not all out racing. Just compare prices and you'll see what I mean. |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Fri Jan 24, 2014 10:51 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
This will be a race only motor. Probably 11.5- 12.0 to one. I will probably go with the 3.484 bore to leave a little more meat in the block. Where are you guys purchasing these "good" bearings? Rick |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Fri Jan 24, 2014 5:16 pm ] |
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Rick, I run Ebay /Old stock Scores From Clevite / Michigan 77's In Rusters engines. I run 2 Bottom Sets of mains in both the Bottom and top.. I have A bunch of extra Top Bearing Shells  I grind of the Locating tab for the Lower Shell when I put it in the top of the Main. I also Use Clevites on the rods.. Stock configuration... No half Shell Swap mumbo jumbo theere. Greg |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Sat Jan 25, 2014 4:22 am ] |
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Quote:
I run 2 Bottom Sets of mains in both the Bottom and top.. I have A bunch of extra Top Bearing Shells
That is what the slant six performance book says, but I never liked doing it that way. (actually it is the upper shell when installing in the cap)I grind of the Locating tab for the Lower Shell when I put it in the top of the Main. Greg 1) you need to do it every time you change bearings. 2) it is possible to have a high spot, and the bearing to be tight on the crank. I cut the notch in the cap to except the upper shell. It is easy to do with a die grinder and cutoff wheel. The depth is not critical, as long as it is deep enough, and the side location, is close enough with a scribed line. Takes about the same time as doing the bearing shell, but once and done. The other option is to just cut a groove in a stock lower bearing shell, by hand. That saves having to buy a second set of bearings. PS: I am a firm believer in grooving the lower main bearing shell, either by cutting the groove, in a stock bearing, or using a extra upper shell in the cap. Early in my days, running "stock eliminator", I did have some rod bearing issues. Since using full groove mains, I have had zero bearing issues. I turn my nitrous 170 close to 7,000 rpm. |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote:
(actually it is the upper shell when installing in the cap)
Charrlie is right..I cut the notch in the cap to except the upper shell. It is easy to do with a die grinder and cutoff wheel. The depth is not critical, as long as it is deep enough, and the side location, is close enough with a scribed line. Takes about the same time as doing the bearing shell, but once and done. I had it backwards... Damn Dyslexia.. I might Just try Notching the Cap this time instead of De notching the Bearing shell. Greg |
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