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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2003 6:53 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 12:32 am
Posts: 319
Location: Stony Mountain, Manitoba, Canada
Car Model:
Hey all,

I made a purchase of a 1979 Dodge Aspen SE, the car is complete but was changed over to a Iron Case 4spd trans from the 904 auto (done very nice) and is a very nice car and pretty solid for never ever being worked on or touched.

So far i've done a valve adjustment, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, put a rebuild bbd on (just the one that i tricked out) and removed all of the smog crap. Now i'm getting into the body and front end work. I need this car to be a DD while my truck is getting done up.

The car came with some pretty neat options, i'll post more about the car when i get my pics back and the fender tag decoded

Anyways the front right wheel is seized to the Hub. Got no clue how to take it off, things i've done so far is rap on it with a hammer, spray it with pen lube repeatedly for a day, tried raping on it with a hammer again this aft and nothing (screwed the rim up but the mags are in the trunk :)) then i got fed up and put the lug nuts on loose then drove down the road a few times, after that it still wasnt loose so i did about 30MPH and cranked the wheel to the right so all the force would be pushing the tire, then SLAMMED the brakes on, did it about 3 times, STILL no go. :shock: :evil: :evil: :evil: :shock:

I'm 110% stuck on this! the next thing i'm going to try is to use a come-along to the rim and to a tree and givin her crap!, if that fails i guess i'm going to try to heat it up and rap on it with a hammer more! :cry:

Thanks for any help!

Justin


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2003 8:37 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 12:32 am
Posts: 319
Location: Stony Mountain, Manitoba, Canada
Car Model:
Got it off, after almost 2 days of beating it with a hammer, i finally got it off! :lol:

Wasnt fun, took about 20min of pounding and another 10 or so of "fiddling" but now i can actually start working on this thing :)

Justin


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2003 5:45 am 
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Board Sponsor
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 5:02 pm
Posts: 1847
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Car Model: '23 T-bucket
When you put it back together, put a light coat of anti-sieze on the drum and lugs. You might be surprised how well that stuff works, but not until the next time you have to take it apart.

Roger


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2003 8:54 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13265
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Back when I first got my 66 Cuda the right rear wheel was rusted to the drum like yours was. I gave it two good whacks with my 12 lb sledge hammer and it popped right off.

One thing to watch out for on those F-bodies is the calipers having one bolt fall out and the aliper rotating and wedging against the rim, locking it up. I had this happen on both the 78 Volare Wagon I owned and the 76 Volare Sedan. It only happened on the drivers side caliper though. Weird.

Reed


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2003 8:01 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 12:32 am
Posts: 319
Location: Stony Mountain, Manitoba, Canada
Car Model:
Thanks reed, i was smackin it with a 6lb hammer, i got the rotor's off and the front end looks "OK" to me, but i have to figure a way to tell for sure, the frame rail is rusted clean through on bothsides and i've already put a patch on the drivers side, i'll cover it with an inch of undercoat before the safety.

I'm using 10gu. galvinized steel and a gassless mig to weld'r up :)

Justin


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2003 8:53 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13265
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
One thing to look out for is the bushings that hold the sway in place on the k-frame. These have a tendency to become oil soaked and degraded.

Reed


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