They make bearing race and seal drivers and they aren't that much (Lisle has a kit for maybe $30-40). I've just carefully used a long screwdriver
and that's always worked for me.Lou
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| How do you install new wheel bearing race? https://mail.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7753 |
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| Author: | '74 Sport [ Wed Dec 03, 2003 7:32 am ] |
| Post subject: | How do you install new wheel bearing race? |
I bought new wheel bearings for Aaron's "Dartster" and showed him how to pack them with grease properly. We drove the old bearing races out of the hub and got the new ones started in. But once they get flush with the hub, how do you drive them in to fully seat? I don't want to booger up the edges hammering on them and then ruin the new bearings. Is there a special tool you use for this, or do I just take my time and tap them in with a good square-ended punch? I guess the metal the race is made with will probably be harder than most punches. Jerry |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Wed Dec 03, 2003 7:48 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
They make bearing race and seal drivers and they aren't that much (Lisle has a kit for maybe $30-40). I've just carefully used a long screwdriver and that's always worked for me.Lou |
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| Author: | relic-lover [ Wed Dec 03, 2003 8:19 am ] |
| Post subject: | before i had a seal driver ... |
Before I had all the tools - I would use the back (flat) side of a socket - still have to tap carefully and make sure it doesn't move off the side of the race. |
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| Author: | '74 Sport [ Wed Dec 03, 2003 9:04 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks guys, Someone else over at .com suggested a brass punch. If I can't find one of those, I'll resort to some of your ideas. Just didn't want to do something ignorant and mess up the new bearings. Jerry |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Wed Dec 03, 2003 9:48 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
You might use a block of wood layed across it and a hammer to pound it in until it's flush, then use the screwdriver/punch/socket to get it in the rest of the way. Lou |
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| Author: | 66Dart [ Wed Dec 03, 2003 12:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Take one of the old race's that you removed and using a bench grinder, slightly grind the circumference down until it will slide down through the hub. Use this modified race to tap down the new one into the hub. Matt |
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| Author: | Red [ Wed Dec 03, 2003 2:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | WB races |
I'd say a hydraulic press would be the easiest way. Lacking that (as most of us do) I'd say Dart270s idea is the way to go (block of wood, finishing with a brass punch) and the way I've done it myself. Just avoid hammering on it with anything made of hard steel. Here's where I got some large brass punches for this sort of work: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... mber=37038 These work well for applying force to anything metal where you're not wanting to mar it. ---Red |
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| Author: | Craig [ Wed Dec 03, 2003 3:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The brass rod/punch is recommened. However a SOFT steel rod works OK too. Do NOT use a punch, screwdriver, socket, or similar. Those tools hardened steel and will deform the edge of the bearing race. |
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| Author: | greasy 225 [ Sat Dec 06, 2003 2:41 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Could you bake the hub in your oven to get it pretty hot and frezze the races over night then just slide them in and tapp them home, might make it a lil' easier and deffinatly uses less force(which means your less likly to mar them). -Jesse |
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| Author: | volaredon [ Sat Dec 06, 2003 12:29 pm ] |
| Post subject: | yeah, I guess... |
Yeah, I guess you could do the oven trick, but those races aren't that tight a press fit. I do it with a bearing racs/seal driver made for the job, but have done the screwdriver/flat punch trick, too. If you don't go nutz with the "Tim Taylor" approach, you won't hurt the new races and you'll know when they are driven "home" when they get to the cast in shoulder in the hub. you don't have to kill it, go easy with the hammer and you will hear when it sounds solid, then you know you're there. 
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| Author: | Pierre [ Sat Dec 06, 2003 2:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
What I did last was, tap the race in untill its flush with the hub, then lay a heavy cloth down on the race, and place the old bearing on the cloth, and drive it down slowly. The cloth usually takes care of any scratches. |
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| Author: | '74 Sport [ Sat Dec 06, 2003 11:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks everyone for all the ideas. We got them installed today. Used a block of wood to drive them flush with the hub. Then used a softer metal rod to drive them home. Worked great. Aaron now has all the front suspension installed. Tomorrow we put on the rebuilt calipers, new flexible brake lines, and brake pads. We'll clean up a pair of the donor Duster's LBP steel rims (paint if necessary) and get this Dart back on all fours for the first time in months.  Starting to make some headway now. Actually putting things back on, instead of taking more off. Jerry |
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| Author: | Red [ Sun Dec 07, 2003 5:48 am ] |
| Post subject: | putting things back on... |
 "Starting to make some headway now. Actually putting things back on, instead of taking more off." A good feeling, ain't it? I put disks on my '71 Dart. You're gonna love the improvement over 9" drums. Let us know what you think after the first test drive. Happy "putting back on". ---Red |
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