Two questions:

1. I've read the post on adjusting valves hot and with engine at a slow idle. Question is, doesn't the wrench you're using try to jump off the rocker arm when the arm is rocking? I need a little input as to the technique involved in this, and wonder how messy the procedure is if oil is going to spray out or not?

(I've printed out Doug Dutra's adjustment tips.)

2. Can the valve lash be set "cold" first, then later "dialed in"... and if so, what should I set the cold numbers at? .010 intake, and .020 exhaust?

Thanks!

By all means, do a cold adjustment at .011 and .022 then "fine tune" with the engine hot.

Do not worry about the oil, it does not spray all around at high pressure, it just drizzles out of a bunch of small feed holes. Some oil will get splashed onto the ground.

As for the actual adjust, don't use a wrench, use a socket. I use a well worn 6 point socket and come at the adjuster straight down from the top, it stays on pretty easily if the idle is turned down.
DD

Thanks for the reply. This forum is the absolute best and most responsive I've ever visited. And the new format is terrific. I just set the option to notify me when a reply is posted... and voila! Very, very cool. Thanks again for the assistance.

Is it really necessary to have the engine running? I don't see a need unless the valve train is hydraulic.
I would think the best way to do it would be to get the engine good and hot, set the engine to TDC compression for the #1 cylinder, adjust the lash on all closed valves, then turn the crank 360 degrees and do the rest of the closed valves. This is how I've done it on my truck's straight-6, which has an almost identical valve train to our Slix's. Never had a problem that way.

WOOPS forgot to log in again...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

You can do a pretty good valve adjustment with the engine off. (hot)
There is more to keep track of as you rotate adjust, rotate, adjust,...

Once you do an engine-off adjustment, I always start the engine and recheck the lash running. During this "final check" I often find that a few need some additional adjusting, for some reason, things change a bit between the static and the running state.

When you check the lash running you get more "feedback" from the engine, not only do you feel the tightness on the lash with the "feeler gauge" but you also hear the lash tapping and hear / feel the cylinder misfire as you hang the valve off it's seat, by taking-up the lash with the thickness gauge.

Basically, you can get a little more accuracy and performance if you do a final check / tweak with the engine running but this does take a little practice and it's a real pain on a radical engine with stiff valve springs and a lumpy idle.
DD

Thanks again for the info on valve adjusting business. The engine is now running. Started right up no problems. Lash was set "cold". Very quiet engine, too. (225). I followed all of Doctor Dodge's tips and articles, and the extra time spent doing things meticulously paid off.

Will now attempt to fine tune things with the engine hot. Hey, this is a lot of fun!

I used a box end wrench to adjust my valve lash while the engine is running, it feels a little weird but you get used to it. I would also recomend putting a blanket over the fender as oil splashed on min eand it was kind of a bugger to get off. put the feeler guage in between and slide it around and keep tightening til it starts to die a bit then pull it out and the idle should pick back up if not you tightened it too much and back it off a bit.

i've seen a bunch of posts on the subject and have never tried it but call me a flat rate mechanic bastard, but i see no reason to do a valve adjustment with an engine running other that to make a mess and waste time. i would think it a bigger pain in the ass keeping up with "which cylinder is next." a hot adjust with the engine off is fine. even better with the balancer marked off in 120 degree increments. makes the whole thing much easier. like i said, i've never "done it running" (except for maybe a sbc or v-6) so i can't say for sure which is better, this is just my two cents' worth.

-james

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Some notes on doing the valve adjusting "hot" with engine running. This being the first time, I note the following points:

No oil spilled anywhere. Yet I could see little streams of oil nicely lubricating the rocker arms. Made me feel kind of warm and fuzzy.

Used an 8 point socket. No problem. Feels a little odd at first, but got used to the sensation quickly enough.

Easy to see intake from exhaust.

I'm no wrench head, but I think this method works fine. And it's kind of cool to watch the rockers rock and the valves act like pogo sticks.

All said and done, this worked out extremely well.

8 pt socket?

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'66 Cuda 225/4spd
'66 Dart GT convertible 225/auto
'64 Dart GT 340/4spd

8 points for getting that right. Never seen an 8 sided nut? Meant 6.

I have some 8 point Craftsman sockets, now I know what their used on!!!

Cecil

It took me a while to figure-out what those 8-point sockets are used for, yup, they are for square head plugs, socket extensions, etc. (sorry, not for hex head nuts and bolts)
DD

They used to make square nuts too, even in small sizes - I've seen em! Square head pipe plugs are probably the most common, as Doug said.

Lou

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