We got the engine out and was able to take a good look at the cam shaft. It looks good at most spots but it has one tooth that is broken almost to the base of the tooth. It is shot. We will get it ready for the new cam and oil pump shortly. The Bearings looked fine.
Doug, I see you said .005 end play on the cam stop? Where are you measuring that at? Or how do you get a measurement with the engine in the car and the pan on? Through the distributor hole?

Thanks,
Rick

I measure cam end play off the end of the cam, before I install the rear plug.
You can also do this by "feel", just find that spot where all the endplay goes away, then back-off a pinch. You can "feel" your way in...
I sent off gears today, 2 day post.
DD

I'm not yet ready to fire my build-up(pushrod issues) and definatly don't want to take any chances. I guess now would be a good time to pull the new melling pump off and install the original 89k mile pump gear while the engine is still on the stand. The original pump gear looks fine, just normal shine where the contact pattern was. Is this a good idea or should I buy a new gear?

I would use a known "good wearing" used gear over an unknown quality replacement pump gear, given the amount of trouble we have seen with the replacements.
DD

The gears arrived today Doug, Thanks! These gears clearly have a smoother finish to them than the new stock oil pump gear. I'm sure that's got to help too.

Rick

Doug,
I put the engine back together today. The oil pump gear had a well centered pattern on the teeth.
Thanks,
Rick

Do you still have more of the gears available. The 2 you sent me are going in engines and I would'nt mind having a couple spare around for the future. That is, unless your planning to do more in the future?

Let me know,
Rick

I can do another batch of these but I need more gears to heat treat.
If anyone has some, even good used ones, send them to me and I can include them into the batch.

The heat treat run cost $100.00 for 1 or 100 gears, last time I managed to collect 30 gears so heat treat cost was $3.34 each, that seems reasonable. I also lapped and broached slots into these units. (That's why they have a nice smooth tooth surface)

I am willing to do more but I need gears and want to cover my costs.
DD

Doc,
On a related note, would you recommend using your new bronze gears with a normal, non billet, cam? Seems like that would be the best option, and the cost isn't that bad, especially for such a specialized part and the consequences of a gear falure.

mh-

Because of this whole oil pump drive gear problem, when I rebuilt my "Screamin' Six" engine and put in a new MP 268 cam, I used a factory 36,000 mile oil pump that came with the engine originally. I wanted the factory gear, and I felt that even a stock volume pump would be enough. I was right.

With drilled out passages to the mains and full groove tri-metal main bearings and a stock spring in the pump, I get 51-52 psi hot pressure with 10w-40 oil, and hot idle in gear goes down to around 20 psi or so. Even when cold, oil pressure never gets above 60 when revved up.

So I think things will be ok for a while. The engine gets enough oil, and the pump gear shouldn't be overstressed. The new engine has 24,500 miles on it now. This is with a 5/8" rotor factory pump.

If I had to feed oil to a turbo, it might need the HV pump, but if I can ever afford to put a turbo on, I'll try the stock pump first.

Doug I would like to get two more gears if possible. No rush on them, so I don't mind waiting for the next run. I have one new gear I just took off and will send it to you for your collection. I may have one used one as well.
OK guys, step up to the plate and let Doug know how many gears you have. This is very cheap insurance!! Take my word for it!!!

P.S. Our engine is back in the car. Hopefully we'll be up and running Saturday.

Thanks,

Rick

Not just slanters having oil pump woes:


http://www.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showf ... =2&fpart=1



---Red