I have 2 s6 engines

1 is full rebuild......stock ....standard cam, pistons, 1bbl carb etc < this one is in my car

I want to build another s6 engine
4bbl intake, 4bbl carb, headers , hotter cam etc....

so my question is...
How do I know which cam to (buy) use?
should I rebore ? if yes how much ? will it make a huge difference
pistons? where do they sell pistons for s6?
shaved head ? how much ?
which 4 bbl carb?

what else should I take in consideration...so my engine is on the safe side?

thanks for your help

Hey Matadem,

Welcome to the site. There is tons of good info here, and some friendly folks.

Before giving you feedback, it would be nice to get from you some "targets", like:

-desired performance level (0-60 or 1/4 mile time)
-mileage
-what type of racing

and some "constraints", like:

-total budget
-the car you are starting with
-axle ratio you can tolerate
-transmission type

Also, include as much as you can about what you consider "streetable" as this is a very subjective term.

There are several good "streetable" cars here and the buildups are posted on this site and on www.slantsix.com.

Thanks,

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thx for the reply

I don't care for mileage as this car would be driven mostly on weekends only
and it would not be for racing (I just want an s6 with a good amount of power and nice sound

the car is a 1969 Plymouth valiant 4 door , 3 speed manual trans...

and by streetable I mean ...it can be used as a daily driver

budget.....about $2300 mostly

and I know people at a shop...so I can get rebore and head jobs cheaper

OK, thanks for the info. I believe you go as Supernaut on the .com site? Cool ride.

Here's what I would do given your specs and knowing how your car project has gone so far:

- Clifford Street Rod headers into duals with crossover pipe, or into single 2.5" with Dynomax SuperTurbo or Flowmaster 3 chamber muff
- Use stock replacement pistons (cast - 0.030 or 0.060 overbore) from Enginetech or Silvolite
- Balance the rotating/reciprocating assembly and resize rods and grind crank - use 0.0015" clearances on rod and main bearings - check w/plastigage
- Stock replacement oil pump (reuse old drive gear or get hardened one from Doc Dodge on this site)
- Clifford or Offenhauser 4bbl intake with Edelbrock 500 CFM electric choke carb - good quality stock replacement fuel pump (NAPA, for example)
- Isky 264/0.448" cam or slightly larger (maybe 235@0.050" duration and 0.480 lift - Isky can help you out) - degree the cam (roller chain optional, but not needed, otherwise get stock repl chain with all metal gears).
- If you can get fairly cheap machine shop work then do the head with SB
Ford valves (1.74" intake/1.46" exhaust) - new bronze guides and stiffer springs, also do mild porting/bowl blending for best flow with bigger valves. There are many other valve choices, but these will work well.
- Baffle oil pan for accel/decel and cornering, and possibly drop sump 3/4" if you can tolerate it (ground clearance).
- If you can find the parts and have the $$, definitely convert to a 4spd manual (A833 trans, non-OD) and get some 3.55 gears in the rear (possibly 8.75" rear axle?).
- Once you have it together, spend some time adjusting timing, and if necessary recurving the distributor for best performance.

I think with a little help from your machine shop buddies you can get this done within your budget. The trans and rear gear will really help out too. Later, I would recommend going to a 5spd (T5 like mine maybe) if you are into some more fabrication and have some extra $$$.

Did I forget anything??

Happy building,

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Don't forget about the Hot Rod Mag. Slant engine build-up, that engine combo made pretty good power.
Remember that most of the gains are found in cylinder head porting work.
DD
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/hrm-sl ... ckness.htm