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 Post subject: Air Conditioning
PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2003 7:44 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 6:27 pm
Posts: 62
Location: Portland, OR
Car Model:
I found a parts car with a stock air conditioner (66 Dart GT /6 225). How difficult is it to get these working after so many years? What would be a good price to pay for everything?

Thanks,

Tom


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 Post subject: A/C Delima
PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2003 12:50 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 10:42 am
Posts: 550
Location: Los Angeles, Ca
Car Model:
Necessary to remove all brackets/lines-blower motor and controls (general way to deal with this is to swap in the A/C dash for your non A/C one) along with all necessary wiring harness and duct work and condensor and re-install in reverse order. Planning A/C for my 63GT and cannot find a A/C doner so have researched this quite well. Would not pay over $200.00 as chances are the condensor/compressor or clutch could be bad if comtaimated with moisture from being exposed to the elements for a period of time or due to a undiscovered system leak or the mixing of incapatable freon. Planning to do mine as 134A so will have to use new compressor and condensor. but these are not cheap. This install can be done yourself, you will need the special tool for crimping own steel lines as all rubber should be replaced and and new fittings aquired . This tool can be had from Custom Auto Air and Air Vintique for around $150.00, Get either of these companies catalogs as they have good tips included in them. SAFETY NOTE: IF SYSTEM IS CURRENTLY CHARGED HAVE EVACUATED BY SOMEONE WHO HAS THE PROPER EQUIPTMENT BEFORE REMOVING AND BY THE SAME TOKEN, HAVE RECHARGE BY A QUALFIED SHOP, NEVER WORK ON A CHARGED SYSTEM WITHOUT PROPER EYE PROTECTION AS THE FREON IS AT SUB-ZERO TEMPATURES AND COULD BURN EYES AND SKIN IF EXPOSED. AGAINST EPA REGULATIONS TO DISCHARGE TO THE ATMOSPHERE. BTW the factory system is R12 refrefrigerent and this is now being phased out and is horribly expensive if you could even find a shop that uses it. Best bet order new 134A rotary compressor as is smaller and fits our low hoodlines better and only requires a couple of horses to operate as opposed to the power robbing monster the factory installed. Note the 134A system uses different line fittings, your R12 fittings/couplers will not work.(physically impossible to connect a R12 fitting to a 134A compressor and vice-versa)also would need condensor with 134A fittings. You will need to address cooling needs as your single core radiator is insufficient, Go to the largest radiator you can fit between the supports with 4 cores or if you got the bucks a aluminum job, need 7 blade fan with viscous coupling (Aspens/Volaries are a great source for these) or these can be bought new from several sources. Personally I feel an electric fan is the best option here. As for dash options would swap over A/C doner dash this avoids having to fit the ductwork and outlets and avoids cutting your dash to install the controls and gives you the correct wiring harness and fuse box. Recomend if have not done so, upgrade to duel field alternator and electronic voltage regulator to handle the new electrical demands. Don't mean to ramble on, just thought I would pass along some of my findings. Keep me posted on the project, may be coming to you for tips soon when I do mine . Dave 8) 8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2003 3:38 pm 
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Contributor
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:29 am
Posts: 1049
Location: Texas
Car Model: 1964 Valiant convertible 225 automatic
Just a comment on the previous post.

On my '64 Valiant with a slant 6, there was not enough room to install either a viscous fan or an electric fan.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2003 3:47 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 10:42 am
Posts: 550
Location: Los Angeles, Ca
Car Model:
Feel for you 64 Convertable those Plymouths are tight 8) 8) , lucky for us Dart owners we have room. 64 Convertable brings up a good point. MOCK UP AND TEST FIT EVERTHING! Dave


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