Boy, that interior is in nice shape! That's factory A/C (see how the controls are integrated with the heat/defog/air all in one?); the A-body never got in-dash ducting. The compressor will mount just fine to the '69 engine. Since your system is open, you'll need a new filter-dryer and there are some decisions to make -- notably whether you want to stay with the R12 refrigerant the system was designed for, or go to the newer R134a. There are cheap "conversion" kits available at the parts store; avoid them if you don't want to risk extensive damage to the system that will be costly to fix. R12 is more expensive per pound than R134a, but you need only a few pounds and it is the more efficient refrigerant. An R134a changeover can be done successfully, but it is more than just an oil changeout and some new O-rings. See here for detailed discussion, and on your '76 you'd want to remove the EPR valve from behind the compressor's inlet fitting, and install a thermal clutch cycling switch -- there being no way to recalibrate the EPR valve for R134a. See previous posts here and here.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks for the AC info Dan.

I took the BFV out for a night run this evening, and immediately discovered that the dash lights aren't working....need to look into that tomorrow. However, all the exterior lights are just fine, and now that it's insured and registered, I figured a nighttime highway run would be fun.

The BFV behaived nicely, but as I suspected, the choke isn't working. I wasn't going to pass judgement until after my carb rebuild, but sure enough....no workie.

I need to order one of the neato electric chokes that I've seen on this forum.

Still a hint of that frustrating stumble on acceleration. I really need to carve out some time to adjust the valves.

I was also thinking while cruising down the highway that I should inspect the front wheel bearings and repack them for good measure. Sitting for two decades probably didn't do them any favors.

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1954 Ford, Tudor Mainline
1976 Plymouth Valiant, 4 door


www.automotive-ninja.com

Check the headlight switch for corrosion on the rehostat(sp) section. My Dart sat for several years and the contact part was all green....I cleaned it off an now my dash lights work...mostly. I still need to do a better cleaning job, they work as long as I don't try and move the switch to dim them any.

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An officialis Tyrde-Browne Racing membrum

Took the BFV for a very pleasant drive after work today....down a country road...windows down....just awesome in a small, easily handled car like the Valiants are.

However...as I was pulling into the driveway, a new tapping developed that made my heart stop. It sounded for a second like a bottom end tapping....but then no.....maybe a lifter.

I couldn't get it to repeat no matter what I did with the car.

Dang, I hope it's not the bottom end, after all the work I've put into getting this engine installed and running right. I'm going to quick putting off my valve adjustment....and I hope that's what I heard.

Anyone have any quick tips for differentiating between the two?

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1954 Ford, Tudor Mainline
1976 Plymouth Valiant, 4 door


www.automotive-ninja.com

Top ends tend to tap. So do fuel pumps.

Bottom ends tend to thunk.

Done your valve adjustment yet?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Haven't done the valve adjustment yet...but I think I'm just paranoid. I've been getting home too late from work to have enough daylight to do the adjustment, but I did take the BFV for a spin this evening with the sole purpose of listening carefully to the engine sounds.

I still haven't totally killed that exhaust leak at the flange...I think I'm gonna need one of those gaskets that I saw discussed on here the other day. The presence of that leak makes it a bit harder to truly hear what is going on, but I got down to where my ear was almost right on the valve cover and, other than the leak, pretty much all of the noise is coming from those lifters.

You know how it goes....you get a rescued car tighter and tighter, and in better tune and you start hearing all those things that were masked by all the racket before. The average Joe takes a ride with you and hears nothing, but you hear six or seven things that either concern you or that you know need fixing.

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1954 Ford, Tudor Mainline
1976 Plymouth Valiant, 4 door


www.automotive-ninja.com

Just got done adjusting the valves a minute ago....I'm taking a break in the AC...that Texas sun is beating down today.

It's amazing that thing was idling as well as it was. For some reason most of the intakes were too loose and most of the exhausts were too tight.

However...as I got down to the end of the valve train, the idle really started to sweeten up, then the very last exhaust valve on number 6 was pretty badly overtightened, and once I adjusted it properly it was really singing a song.

I'm gonna let it cool down a bit before I put the valve cover back on....then I'll take it for a test drive.

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1954 Ford, Tudor Mainline
1976 Plymouth Valiant, 4 door


www.automotive-ninja.com

Update....

back from my test drive....and wow....what a huge difference!

Not only is the idle much, much smoother, but one of the biggest differences is the engine idle when the car is shifted in to reverse. Before, the idle would get pretty rough. Now it is still silky smooth with the brake on in reverse.

Now if I can get that remaining exhaust collector leak sealed up, it'll really be smooth and quiet.

My next project is the suspension:

- The shocks are shot
- I'm think I have ball joint issues on the passenger side.

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1954 Ford, Tudor Mainline
1976 Plymouth Valiant, 4 door


www.automotive-ninja.com

Took the BFV out for an extended run this evening....partly on a farm-to-market road and partly on the Interstate....total drive time, about 2 hours.

The BFV did very well and it's apparent that all of the time, effort and replacement parts/hoses/etc that have gone into the engine since the swap were well worth it. The car is responsive and smooth.

My main issues now are related to the suspension and tires.

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1954 Ford, Tudor Mainline
1976 Plymouth Valiant, 4 door


www.automotive-ninja.com

BFV update:

I've been tweaking nitpicky little stuff on the BarnFindValiant for a couple weeks and it's really making a difference.

- Thoroughly cleaned the two + decades worth of dust out of the interior and dashboard. I'm totally psyched with the results....it basically looks new, and now the interior smells good.

- I've been tweaking the front suspension and have had some minor success getting it to ride at the correct height and track more straight.

- I've spent some time lubricating misc. squeaks and rattles in the interior and it's now very quiet and solid.

- Just about all of my vacuum leaks have been taken care of and the engine is just singing a song....I LOVE this little slant motor. I can see why they endear themselves to their owners.

- A few remaining challenges are: non-working radio, windshield wipers acting funky...only going through half of their motion and kind of clunking around, and finally.....the exhaust collector-to-exhaust pipe gasket is STILL leaking a bit. It's not really hurting anything but it's the only thing keeping the engine from being essentially silent as I go down the road.

Don

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1954 Ford, Tudor Mainline
1976 Plymouth Valiant, 4 door


www.automotive-ninja.com

My mechanic buddy has the BFV for a few days and will replace the ball joints and control arm bushings and will take a stab at stopping the exhaust collector leak.

I replaced the shocks before I drove it over there.

I should have the BFV back in my hands by Wednesday with a tight front end that actually lines up right, and with the exhaust leak stopped, hopefully I'll be able to really listen to the engine closely for the first time.

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1954 Ford, Tudor Mainline
1976 Plymouth Valiant, 4 door


www.automotive-ninja.com

I can't wait to get the BFV back from the shop....and drive it with the new and improved front suspension, and silenced exhaust leak.

I'll then start in on the AC.....will probably need some help from you gurus.

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1954 Ford, Tudor Mainline
1976 Plymouth Valiant, 4 door


www.automotive-ninja.com

Got the BFV back from the mechanic this morning. They replaced all of the ball joints and control arm bushings.

Wow....what a difference.

I took it out on the Interstate and she very nicely handled 80+ mph.

I'm still working on that $@#!! exhaust collector leak though. Dang that thing is starting to irritate me.

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1954 Ford, Tudor Mainline
1976 Plymouth Valiant, 4 door


www.automotive-ninja.com

Are you sure its from the lower flange area? Another very common place for exhaust leaks is the intake/exhaust mating surfaces. I would take the flange off, and look at the gasket.

If the lower flange to pipe-flange gasket is toast, check the flange with a straight edge for flatness, and if its flat, put a straightedge on the bottom of the manifold, and make sure its flat. If they aren't you won't be able to get it sealed.

If the gasket is good, and there are no carbon traces on the weld which holds the flange to the pipe, the next place to look is the mating surface between the manifolds.

They manifold mating surfaces only came with a metal shim from the factory, just like the head gasket, and manifold to head gasket. Simply replacing the metal shim with another may not be enough. RemFlex is the company that makes the big huge thick awesome gaskets, and though expensive, you wont have to worry about exhaust leaks even if your manifolds are quite exactly flat.

~RDE~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I own a '76 Duster and I'm glad to see another disco A-body back on the road again. You'll have fun discovering the little differences between 76's and all other A-bodys.

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