There's a couple of spots on my D100 cab that look like it might impinge on integrity. Not fly off the frame in case of an accident, as much might sag eventually. At least to my eye. A couple spots look like welding is the proper option; but in others, would the POR-15 fiberglass repair be decently strong? JB Weld, maybe? I don't have photos (yet) of the areas. I'd like to either epoxy-and-leave-alone if sufficent, or bondo for now with the intention of chiseling out later for a real welding job.

One pair of spots is the rear lower cab corner. Like, where the rocker panel meets the cab wall. The weld is visible from the outside; the holes let light into the very bottom of the cab, right at the floor. These spots don't strike me as particularily structural.

I'm trying to not do too much of a hack job on this. But at the same time I'm trying to limit cash outlay, until it's on the road. Once on the road then I can open up my budget more--basically, I don't want to make a yard queen out of this.

Also: if I coat a spot in POR-15, how much of a headache will it make later on if it gets some welding? I know one has to grind down to bare metal, and grind back a ways; but, just to make sure, having POR-15 in that area won't trash future repairs? I can't see that it'd be a problem, but I've never used the stuff before.

never heard of pro-15, but on any bare metal after welding or just small pin holes use metal filler for first skim, then regular filler to finish. metal filler has a metal base formula and resist moisture better than fiberglass.a quart is exspensive but goes a long way when use for just the first coat.

From what I've read, POR-15 have been around for a while. When I did a search (a while ago), most reports seemed quite positive. I'm reading through their directions now, and I wonder if some (at least some) of the negative reviews are from application mistakes.

http://www.por15.com/quickindex.asp

Sounds pretty good, and their putty might be the trick for actual hole repair.

POR-15 works pretty well. I would recommend self etching primer sprayed over the POR-15 after it sets, and before you put any other repair material over it. You can put fiber glass right over the self etching primer, and it holds well. The fiberglass does not stick so well to POR-15. I have used this technique often, and it works. Fiberglass does not soak up moisture.

You can then go to bondo on top of that. Bondo soaks up moisture, so no bondo can be open to moisture. If you put bondo over any metal with holes in it, the moisture enters from behind through the holes. This is an approach I have used, and recommend.

1. POR-15
2 Self etching primmer.
3.Fiberglass. Gorilla Hair is an excellent fiberglass first coat.
4. Bondo.
5. Primier
6.Paint.

Sam

_________________

Ah, thanks Sam. I saw their Marine-Clean and their Prep and Ready, and it seemed like those were good products to use also, if not quite required to get the best out of the POR-15.

The metal prep I like is Captain Lee's Metal Prep and Conditioner, out of a distributor in Delaware. http://www.halonmarketing.com/ Do not use their product called Rustaway. It is like all the others. Metal Prep and Conditioner does NOT require flushing with water, which could get rust started again. I use Captain Lee's all the time for all my detailing work. When I rebuilt the old iron 833 I treated the case with it. I did not paint it, but the Captain Lee's turned it black and kept it that way. I did not rust after that. It simply stayed that oxidized black color, and still looked the same when I sold the car.

Sam

_________________

I wonder if that is like Jasco Metal Prep? I just used some of that. Need to try Captain Lee's.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I pint of Captain Lee to 1 tumbler of Captain Morgan......arrrrr.

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Therrrre be pirates in dem dar Canadian hills???

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

lou, nice to see proper english

Blast it all, it's like all other things: use only above 50F. Drat. Will have to wait until summer. Just as well--after all, it is rather cold right now. Darn those inspection laws...

If Jasco requires rinsing with water, then there is a distinct advantage to Captains Lee's. AFter twenty minutes or so, wipe Captain Lees down with a rag, and then walk away. Next day, prime and paint.

Sam

_________________

POR-15 can be used with fiberglass using the POR-15 as a resin. Coat the surface with POR-15, while it is still wet, lay in your fiberglass. Then (while still wet) "paint" with POR-15 to saturate. When using this technique I think the fiberglass "weave" works better than the chopped mat.

I was told this technique by the local POR-15 dealer. I have used it and it works well on small areas. For example a pitted piece of sheet metal with small specks of rust through.

That sounds excellent. Gorilla hair has fiber glass stands in it. They make both a long and short hair version. You could top of the glass mat with it if you wished. The main thing is to make sure all holes are filled with something other than bondo. If you use pop-rivets, make sure your first body work layer over them is some combination of POR-15 and fiberglass and is sealed solid.

For what it is worth, the biggest challenge with POR-15 is keeping the left-over fresh. Moisture makes it set hard like epoxy. You cannot get the lid off the can again if there is residue in the lip when you put the lid back on. The ideal dispenser for the stuff would be a big tube like artist oils come in. I have never been able to use it up fully before the left over went bad.

Does anybody have tips for that?

SAm

_________________

Sam, I read through their documents, and the recomend putting saran wrap over the container, so as to make a good, new seal. They also recommend ladling out a small amount, and capping off the can too. Do not put leftover paint back into the can. May be rerigerated to lengthen life (not sure if that's the opened can or the amount you ladled out--I'm assuming it's the big can).

They responded pretty quickly to my question about temperature. But I'd read through the documents I linked to.