Whats your favorite way of doing this, other then resorting to a hammer?

I thought of tightening two nuts on to each other, then "loosening" the bottom one. That would pull the stud up, but it would also have a turning action as well.

I would imagine the process to be the same, but just in case - this is in relevance to a disc brake, seperate rotor & hub.

A big a$$ hammer and a socket under the hole.

Yea I suppose a hammer won't be so bad in this case because you have a bigger flatter area that won't mushroom unlike the other end with threads on it

Im assuming this is on your K-H discs?If it is,Idid just as Eric said on mine,its kinda hamfisted but works well.
You could also take them to a frontend shop and have them pressed in.
Slanted Attitude

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Ive got a slanted attitude and a heavy right foot.

Yep on KH rotors. I think I'm gonna support the edges of the rotor/hub with some scrap wood and bang em in from the back. Last thing I want to do is warp new rotors!

Thanks for the input.

I have always installed mine by pulling the stud through the hub, flipping over a lugnut (flat side in), putting some big and lubricated washers under it, and tightening the lugnut to draw the stud into the hub. Has worked on at least 40 studs for me with no pounding or risk of damage.

Make sure to lube the stud threads, nut and washers with white lithium or knuckle grease.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Ahh my adventure continues!

Using a hammer worked for the most part, but I wasn't able to drive them all the way in, still had about 1/8" to go on some.

I forgot about the lubricant, but I tried the washers and upside down lugnut trick. Hit it with the airgun, the nut reached the washers and stoped there, the socket couldn't hold on and stripped the nut. Luckily it wasn't completely striped as I was able to remove it with the same socket. Next time I think I'm going to try a 6 point socket instead of the 12point that I was using.

Lou, what purpose does the lube serve? Once the nut is that tight the washers won't be turning right?

I would think a hydraulic shop press would be the tool of choice. Somewhere in the far distant past of my youth, it was hammered into me to NEVER, EVER put lubricants on wheel studs.


---Red

The lube on the threads is to keep them from stripping (lots of heat generated there). If you feel the studs/nuts getting hot, then stop and let them cool for a while.

FYI, if you don't lube threads in WI they will rust on and be extremely difficult to get off. I have been putting grease on every lugnut/stud I have encountered in my 16 years of wrenching, and I have never had one loosen up on me (tightening with standard lug wrench or star bar).

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I use Anti-Sieze. Works great and have never had a problem with nuts loosening. Apply it once and your set for life.

Apparently the $0.80 dorman lugnuts are lots softer then the studs. The nuts stripped nicely! (And got quite hot) Yet the outside of the nut still got butcherd up with a snapon 6 point socket.

Now I have to go and pickup some more studs because apparently when banging them out to remove them originally I buggerd up the threads a bit.