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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 5:40 pm 
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It's possible for people of any/every nationality to eff up a job, for sure. When I hear about many jobs effed up like this, though, I start wondering about language barriers. It comes from my product development experience. I could be wrong, of course, but I suspect the machinework wasn't quite as American as Mr. K-1 said at the start.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 6:09 pm 
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:wink:

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2012 10:24 am 
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... My concern was the 7.5" length. That long of a rod will kill any torque this thing was thinking about making ...
I think this is related more to the change in DCR (lower DCR w/ longer rod length) then any angularity / frictional impact.
As always... a well matched combo is the key... all the parts have to "work together" to make the engine run well.
DD


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2012 2:40 pm 
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Hopefully the motor goes as fast as his wallet. :D :D :D :D

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 8:44 pm 
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Thats crazy :D Where are these going?
Just following in Mark's footsteps. He thinks I'm nuts.
He's probably right, but I'm OK with that.
I think he's a looney-tune. But we talk about that on the phone/forum all the time!

We'll see what the time slips say. I'll be up at Gary Eickmann's shop tomorrow to work up some numbers. Hopefully Spud will be there to play with the numbers a bit. He's my injection guy. If they say to use the 7.00 inch aluminum rods I've got, then that's how we'll build it.
We have the plates now, so the slant is slanted no more. Needed the room to cut weight and narrow up the chassis. May end up crank firing now, but the Mag should fit. I'll take it with me.

Notched right, the 7.5's will bottom load and allow the pistons to be pinned above the bore and top loaded. The 7.00" rods and the pistons will need to bottom load. That means I have to over-bore to the bottom of the liners. I'd rather not do that. May just order a set of 7.50" Aluminum rods, or Aluminum rods that will top load.

CJ

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 2:55 pm 
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That was one reason that guys were trying Chevy or Honda rod journal sizes. Hard to get aluminum rods to go in through the top on a Slant journal. :shock:

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 6:53 pm 
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I DO NOT THINK your nuts,,,,,,,,I know you are.Sure are great looking rods though.Mark


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2012 8:08 pm 
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Dan, the China part seems to be fine, it the US machining that seems to be the issue. :cry:
For the record, the bearing notches on the first batch of rods were reversed and this was the only "machining issue". We got all of the rods that left our building back and new notches were cut. This error was corrected on all rods produced after this was discovered and is not an issue on any of the Molnar Technologies rods.

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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2012 11:46 pm 
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Since you brought up the K1's, what is going to be the price for the new rods you offer at Molnar Technologies, and are there going to be any design changes or differences from the K1's that guys here have bought previously. Also, educate us on the limitations of the new Molnar rods as far as there capabilites when used with high levels of nitrous and high boost levels with turbos. Do you see the same rod being used for a N/A application being able to handle the forced induction needs of us, or does a different rod need to be made to cope with these high levels of extreme power adders. Thanks.

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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 8:51 am 
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Since you brought up the K1's, what is going to be the price for the new rods you offer at Molnar Technologies, and are there going to be any design changes or differences from the K1's that guys here have bought previously. Also, educate us on the limitations of the new Molnar rods as far as there capabilites when used with high levels of nitrous and high boost levels with turbos. Do you see the same rod being used for a N/A application being able to handle the forced induction needs of us, or does a different rod need to be made to cope with these high levels of extreme power adders. Thanks.
Our price will be similar to the other brand and most people will be able to get a better price by buying from one of our dealers. As for the difference between the two, there are some things like journal width, big end and wrist pin size, center to center etc that cannot be changed and still work. They are both an H-beam billet so they will look similar but all of our parts are finished sized here in our shop in Michigan under my supervision.

As for power levels, this is much more difficult to answer. We all know power is created from the burning gasses pushing on the piston which in turn pushes on the rod. What some people do not understand is, cylinder pressure does not change much from one HP level to another (I am talking only non boosted engines here). What I mean is, if you have 1,000 PSI cylinder pressure with a 3.500" stroke engine and change the stroke to 4.000", you will make more power but the pushing load on the rod is close to the same. If you ever see a broken connecting rod, look closely at it and in most cases you will see the rod is actually pulled in two rather than crushed on the power stroke. This high tension pulling load is due to the piston trying to go through the cylinder head on the exhaust stroke. The heavier the piston/wrist pin, the longer the stroke and the higher the RPM, the higher this pulling load will be. This is the reason we do not rate rods by power as they are nothing more than a brown number somebody pulled out of their rear end.

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