Rocker Shaft External Oiling - Tortured street car or "RACE ONLY"?

Seeking guidance as I contemplate running an external/supplementary oil line up from the main gallery tombstone pad to the rear of the cylinder head. All input and opinions considered including a verbal smack-down in the event this was covered already and missed by yours truly : )
Thanks in advance!

1) Can a stock oil pump keep up with this and my other 'controlled leak' mod for the oil pump drive gear 'squirter'? (Original pump inspected & measured. Appears mint in every way including drive gear and all measurements are well within spec plus a light porting per Mad Doctor Mod God's specs)?

2) What size fittings and line are recommended for this external upgrade?
(I already tapped gallery tombstone at 1/8" NPT for copper line to gauge but now considering a "T" with a second output for 3/16" Inverted Flare and steel hardline up to rear of head. Steel line would be run 'long' by using a bend or two to deal with flex/expansion<>contraction issues)

3) Should the existing thru-deck oil feed to rear rocker shaft stanchion remain open or plugged or restricted (If restricted, what size)?

4) If this has been covered already, please accept my apologies and please direct me to the story/info/article.

Reference shot showing blank "tombstone" casting at the top rear of oil gallery on my block (now tapped). Click to enlarge:

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1966 Coronet Deluxe

Why do you want to increase oil to the valve gear? Why not just groove the rear cam journal and avoid external plumbing?

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Joshua

If you groove the cam or run a cam bearing with full groove, you will get more than your fair share of oiling at the top. (Enough to say that I had to modify a valve cover with a rear baffle since the mod allows more oil to reach the top than a peanut plug head can drain in the rear pushrod holes.)

I also see you have an earlier block, and next to the block transmission flange below the block drain plug is a pad at the oil galley passage. In the early 60's trucks these are drilled threaded/tapped for use with an oil pressure gauge, you can either use that spot for your gauge sending unit, or you can thread and tap for your external oiling mod for ease of access later in case a leak develops in your bellhousing.

If you are ordering an OCG cam they can groove it, or they can use one of their "late" blanks that already has this feature.

-D.idiot

I would only do this mod if you use rockers that don't feed enough oil to the pushrods and tip like the ones I have on the dart (click the link and scroll down a bit) http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13007

I have raced this car and driven thousands of street miles with an aux oil rail in my valve cover squirting the rockers... but if you are running stock pieces there is no need. I can post pics of how and what to do.. also doc has info on this.. I just copied what he did.

I would dril and tap the tombstone anyway... you can always plug it or use it for a oil press. gauge.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

as stated just need to groove the cam... i would be more curious about 1/8" stand offs in the lifter area to help hold oil in there

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1965 Plymouth A/FX 512ci (under construction)
1968 Dodge Dart SL6 14.25 @ 91.5 1.91 60'
1973 Dodge Dart SL6 Stock
Killer Bee's Member Since 09'
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=128702
http://www.youtube.com/user/805moparkid

Heck, I don't know...maybe I don't need to?
Aw Heck, now I do need too?


I'm confused. Do I or don't I?


I can run the external line for free.
I can purchase another set of cam bearings.
I can purchase another cam or pay to have mine grooved.
OK, I pick the free stuff.


Thanks to all for your input, every bit of it is useful to me. No really, it is.


Now, any last thoughts on the oil pump question? Do you or have you guys run a stock early style short gear pump with the rear cam groove or an external line or is this high volume territory? I asked because I don't want to ASSume anything here, not because I'm a smart aleck.

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1966 Coronet Deluxe

I don't see why you want / need to do anything unless you are using roller rockers that don't oil properly. If your using all stock stuff then you should be good to go.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

X2 with Ric. Is there a need ? Maybe. Both of my race engines never had any mods.The first engine had hundreds of passes and is now going in a street car.Both still alive and kickin !

x3 with Rick, the stock oiling pump is fine, and you only need more pressure if you have other concerns. Even for a regular drag racer standard pumps are fine.

-D.idiot

My Ruster Racer Runs Low 12's on a stock Pump, I put a washer or 2 to get the Pressure up a Bit.


I have been setup that way since 2009.. Probably 300 Passes on it.


No Need to do a dry sump setup yet.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

This is great info guys, much appreciated.

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1966 Coronet Deluxe

I have a groove in the cam and feel that I get to much oil to the top.
Also oil pump mods in the article section. Also reamed oil passages.
Will

Not to hijack but would you guys still reccomend the hardened op gear?

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Michael Glass. Mopar stuff and some rusty Mopar stuff!
1965 Dodge Dart with 66 Valiant front clip. Other stuff...

Yes I would. It is good insurance.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

The best insurance, IMHO, is to reuse a stock used pump and be done with it. I will probably never use a new oil pump again, ever. I have a box of old ones and have never seen one wear out.

Lou

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