#1) While I have the motor out of the car, I will probably go ahead and move my battery to the trunk and do some rewiring up front. Is there any reason that the battery cable running from the trunk to the front can not run through the drivers compartment as long as it is protected when it pass through any sheet metal? Or is it best to just drop through the floor at the back and keep it all under the floor?

#2) Am I right the the battery disconnect needs to shut off the ignition also?

Thanks,
Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I believe battery cable is OK in the passenger compartment. I have seen guys do it and have a shut-off within driver's reach too.

Yes, it must kill everything.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

#1; That's the way I ran mine, but it's a Mitsu Chally. Ran it from the right side of the trunk, across and up the driver's side, and through a convenient channel along the top of the driver's rocker. I did also run it through some of that corrugated plastic tubing for extra protection, though. As far as I know, there's no NHRA regs against it.

#2; You're right, the master switch at the rear has to turn off everything. Fuel pump, ignition, lights.....all of it. I used a two-pole switch, one set of contacts for the main feed, and the other (smaller) set for the alternator wire that recharges the battery. I also added a convenience light for any emergency crew members. I mounted my master dead center where the license plate would have mounted, and fuse-wired the license plate light so that the switch was illuminated until it was turned off.

Roger

I will be totally re wiring ruster this winter...

I had previously ran the positive lead up to the the front through the drivers compartment without any issues.

the shut off switch did not work correctly however.

can anyone post a schematic of how to properly wire the master switch so that it shuts the engine down if running an alternator and mechanical fuel pump?

Thanks, Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Me too! I''m guessing it just needs to ground out the ignition somehow but I'd like mine to work properly too.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

All you have to do to make the switch turn off everything is run the alternator output wire to the battery side of the switch and then take the chassis power feed from the starter. Yes, this means running a long 8 gauge or so wire the length of the car, but it's simple and works.

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Joshua

Josh has it right for a single pole master switch, and it's a quite effective way of doing it.
My two-pole switch has an "extra" set of contacts through it that also get opened when the switch gets turned off.

Sorry....I just realized that not everybody will understand the term "two-pole". A two-pole switch will have two sets of contacts through it, similar to a relay, but will have four external terminals that get used. A single-pole will have one set of contacts, with two external terminals. In the case of master switches like we're talking about, a single pole will have large terminals, while a two-pole will have two large, and two small terminals.
The large terminals get closed when turned on, as do the small terminals, but they are isolated from each other internally, for two seperate circuits.

Roger

I ran the red car for a long time with the alternator wire straight to the battery. The cut-off was in the positive cable and killed the ignition and everything else. The drawback is that the alt wire was always hot.

Rogers way is much better. When I went to the double pole switch I ran the big power wire for the MSD box to the small terminal and the alt wire to the power cable on the starter. That way everything shut off and no live wires anywhere.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I run the alt B+ wire to either the starter or starter relay large terminal. A 2 pole master switch and hook the small terminal in series with the alternator field wire. Only need a 14 or 16 gauge wire running to the back of the car.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

http://www.jegs.com/i/Longacre+Racing/4 ... 5/10002/-1

Is this the type of switch you mean Charlie? It only has a 20 amp alternator circuit, but that should be fine to run the field wire through shouldn't it?

Thanks for all your help!
Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

That's the type. Shop around, I don't remember paying that much.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

What about a relay, I use one to kill my magneto when you hit the switch in the back...

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Destroked 300 (272ci)

My thoughts on relays:
They are good for switching high current circuits, and are necessary in some situations. I use relays for my "WOT" alternator cutout, electric fan and water pump, and my bottle heater. That said, the quality of relays in part stores, leaves something to be desired. I will only use a relay not made in most countries other then USA, Canada. The failure rate of China relays, has gotten horendous. Some of the worst are BWD brand (I have found them bad right out of the box).
Why add a part that could fail, if it is not necessary.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Charlie,

In your set up where does your main feed from alternator go? To the Starter? I want mine simple. I don't want an additional relay if I don't need one. But there sure is a lot of difference of opinion about this out there.

I am running a single field factory alternator in a 65 valiant Chasis.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

The main feed from the alternator, can connect to either the large terminal of the starter relay, or the large terminal of the starter sol. Electrically, they are the same.
On the field wire, just disconnect (or cut) the wire from the field terminal (not the Bat) of the voltage regulator. Run two 14 gauge wires to the small terminals of the cutoff switch, at the back of the car. Connect one of these wires to the field terminal of the regulator, and the other wire to the wire that was removed (cut) from the regulator.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225