Front end suspension overhaul going on and I have conflicting info on the Upper BJ removal method. My Haynes manual says it is pressed in and out. A search on this site says it unscrews with a special socket. I bought new ones and the new one has splines, as descibed in the Haynes manual, not threads. Also Autozone's computer says they are pressed in. 1974 Scamp 2 door /6 is the pedigree. Any help would be appreciated. What is the correct method?

I'm guessing that the pre-73 were threaded and the bigger 73+ joints were press on. I thought I heard someone say that on here before as well, when they changed sizes they changed mounting style.

I know for a fact that the 2 71 A bodies I've worked on were threaded.

They are ALL threaded. Do yourself a favor and buy a $30 BJ socket from www.backintimecarparts.com or similar.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I looked at them more carefully and they are threads. Very shallow threads. Now I need to get that socket. However the drivers side one is mangled from previous owners work. Aargh. I may have to use more gorilla tactics with that one. Thanks all.

Pipe wrenches are universal tools

Is there a torque setting for the Upper Ball joint?

I tried a pipewrench on mine and it just wouldn't bite. I went to the garage I worked in through highschool and they let me borrow the socket. I havd to use a 5 foot helper bar to get them loose

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big damn crescent wrench worked for me. clean and soak it 1st

I went and bought the socket and a 3/4 breaker bar. Worked like a champ on one of the UCA's. On the other one someone welded the ball joint in place. Aargh!! I might be able to grind off the welds or I may make a trip to the JY and get one this weekend. Will it never end? I thought about the other methods and there just didn't seem like enough clearance around the the BJ to get a decent grip. Thanks for the ideas.

Weld it in place? Why? They may of stripped the threads and not been able to torque the joint down. You possibly might need a whole arm.

I wouldn't use a junkyard joint. They are availible in moog from your parts store.

I mean get the arm from a JY. I already have the BJ. Or did you mean the arm?

...careful with all those abbreviations! Some of them may have more than one meaning you know!

"I got a new BJ and worked my nuts loose..."

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

Silly Dennis, kids are for trix

Naw I meant balljoint. Junkyard arms are usually good (unless someone welded a balljoint on ) unless the car was mangled in an accident or something. Arms aren't a wear item.

Yes the balljoints thread in on all the 67+ A-bodies. 73 came with the larger size balljoint which is the same size used on b-bodies so the tool works for both. they unscrew easily with the socket and a torque gun. and Im sure a weld would be damn strong around it but good luck for the next guy who tries to get it off! I am going with .99 torsion bars and 1"sway on my 73 slant does anyone think that will be too rough of a ride for a dailydriver/cruiser/roadracer. I went with moog bjs, energy susp polygraphite bushings and stock rubber in the LCA bushings because I heard the poly LCAs get sloppy since they dont connect to the pivot. any advice on the suspension setup before I tighten it back up? thanks

huh-huh, huh-huh, huh-huh.... hnngghhh-hngghhh, hnngghh-hngghhh, huh-huh, huh-huh....

So, like, what are you trying to say, huh-huh huh-huh

B&B

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If it ain't broke, fix it!