The wiring im my old dart is really brittle. I'd like to make up new wiring harnesses, especially for the engine bay. I think I can get most of the connectors at NAPA, but what about the big connector that goes to the feed-through in the firewall? Anyone know if these can be found anywhere? If not, what do you do?

tomc@abac.com

I got most of my connectors from American Autowire Systems, but they did not have any bulkhead connectors. I asked who made the connectors, and they said their supplier was Packard. I've not tried to find them yet, but you might give it a try and if you find out anything, please let us know.

I'd also like to find a source for a reasonably priced crimper and extraction tool for the 56 series contacts. I modified an old universal crimper, but it's sort of a pain and the crimp quality varies too much.


lancer_41@excite.com

Thanks for the info. I'll post anything I find out.


tomc@abac.com

I just got through changing out that fire wall conector about an hour ago. I could'nt find a replacment so I just cut one wire at a time and put them back without the plugs. The wires change colors as they go through the firewall, some of them anyway. I work electric stuff for a living the Kline lineman pliers with the crimpers are the best I know of. About $ 28 though get them at electric supply house. my car is 75 dart hope this helps.

melam@nxs.net

If you look closely at the way the bulkhead plug is assembled, you will find that each individual wire can be removed from the plastic plug by "tripping" the snap that holds it in. Most are a brass blade or "spade type" male connector which has a groove cut in on one side, this groove locks it into the plastic plug and can be released by inserting a thin / narrow tool along the edge of the spade.

Once you get one out and see how it works & locks-in, you will be able to get them all out like clockwork.

I would simply reuse the bulkhead plugs you have or if yours are "toast", find some good used replacements, then work "wire by wire" to remove a wire, solder-on a replacement wire to the brass spade, (I also install a little shrink tube to keep things protected) then re-insert the new wire / spade assembly back into the bulkhead plug, go to the next position and repeat.
DD

Thanks, Doc. That sounds like the way to go. When I rebuild the harness, is there a particular type of tape I should use to wrap it with?

tomc@abac.com

Truth is that the factory did not use "tape" (with adhesive) but used a plastic wrap along with a fancy, directional "wrap & tie" process.

I'm sure the special wrap can be found through the aftermarket wiring harness makers but if you are not really after a 100% factory looking resto. then just use good quality (3M) electrical tape and shrink wrap. (if you apply shrink wrap over the ends, where the tape starts, it will not come unwrapped.

For the race car, I just bundle-up the wires, hold them together with some zip ties then use that plastic "spiral wrap" or sleeve stuff to finish it off. this makes things quick & easy if you need to add a new wire or "de-bug" some problem.
DD

It's not often I disagree with the Doctor, but I do have a couple of warnings about this advice. With over 30 years in the electrical assembly business, I have learned a few things about wiring.

If you can avoid soldering, do so. Getting a good solder joint with old wire is difficult for even the very experienced. Old automotive wire was not intended to be soldered, and can corrode badly from the application of heat and flux. Nor are the OEM 56 and 58 series contacts designed for solder.

If you do decide to solder, DO NOT use acid core solder, even the mild variety! Get something meant for electrical use. Clean the wire and contact before and after you make the connection with a liberal application of isopropyl alcohol.

Another problem with solder is reliability. You can not tell if you have a good joint and if there is any dirt or corrosion between the solder and the wire or contact, you can have problems.

Solder joints also do not stand up well to vibration unless extremely well made. A good crimp is far superior to solder.



lancer_41@excite.com