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 Post subject: Adding brake booster
PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2002 10:51 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 2:50 pm
Posts: 1742
Location: Spokane Valley, WA
Car Model:
I want to add a booster to my friend's Dart's drum brake system just to improve the feel at the pedal for until I convert it to disc brakes, and I can get a booster/master cylinder cheap at the local pull-a-part, but my question is: is it pretty much plug n' play for adding a power booster with its own MC?

Obviously I'll have to bleed the entire system afterwards, but other than that, anything else I'll need to do?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2002 11:42 am 
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Site Admin
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 12:57 am
Posts: 1396
Location: Grass Valley, Ca.
Car Model: '63 Dodge Dart GT Convertible
One problem I had on my '63 Dart is that there is a "rib" above the master cylinder on the firewall. The lever for the booster adapter hits this rib and prevents the pedal from coming all the way up. The adapter gives a 4 to 1 advantage, so 1/2" less travel means 2" less at the brake pedal. The rib is on '63-'64 A-bodies. You will probably have to flatten out this rib to get full travel in the brake pedal. I just put a turbo on my slant and didn't have room for the booster so I took it off. It turns out that the pressure needed feels the same as a 9" setup so I am not putting the booster back in.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2002 7:13 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 2:50 pm
Posts: 1742
Location: Spokane Valley, WA
Car Model:
Quote:
One problem I had on my '63 Dart is that there is a "rib" above the master cylinder on the firewall. The lever for the booster adapter hits this rib and prevents the pedal from coming all the way up. The adapter gives a 4 to 1 advantage, so 1/2" less travel means 2" less at the brake pedal. The rib is on '63-'64 A-bodies. You will probably have to flatten out this rib to get full travel in the brake pedal. I just put a turbo on my slant and didn't have room for the booster so I took it off. It turns out that the pressure needed feels the same as a 9" setup so I am not putting the booster back in.
This one's a '70 with manual drums (but not for long :twisted: ), so if that's the only thing, it sounds like I'm good to go once I can get to the junk yard and grab one.

_________________
'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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 Post subject: booster
PostPosted: Wed Dec 04, 2002 10:02 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Nov 04, 2002 3:23 pm
Posts: 143
Location: Portland Or
Car Model:
Question:What are the odds of a 30+year old booster having rotted rubber parts? Answer: sometime soon ,some one will loose allot of mileage due to a growing vacum leak followed by a possible loss of needed braking power and for sure down time replaceing somthing that doesn't last longer than fuelpumps radiator hoses or fan belts :shock: Free advice from some one whos been there,, save your time and money and buy a re built if you can pull one for free , use it for the core and save $20 Bruce


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 13, 2002 10:44 pm 
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Site Admin
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 12:57 am
Posts: 1396
Location: Grass Valley, Ca.
Car Model: '63 Dodge Dart GT Convertible
Amen to that! :wink:

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