So when I convert the brakes on the Dart, I'll put in an 8 3/4 axle at the same time, with (if I can find one) a 3.56 PowerLok. Since I'll need new wheels all around because of the different bolt pattern, I'm trying to figure out the best style to go with, and narrowed it down to two options.

Now if I can find 'em in the right sizes, I'll either get a set of these:



Or these:



What I'm hoping to do is fit a 16x10 in the rear (if I can't do that, a 16x8) with low profile tires, and a 15x7 in the front, but I'm debating if I should get a pair of low profile tires for the front (I'm thinking minimum sidewall flex in cornering here) or go with something like a 60 or 65 series passenger tire.

Thoughts? Opinions?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

The only way you will get a 10" rim on the back of a Dart is to move the springs into the frame rails, narrow the rear axle and mini-tub the wheel wells; or cut the sheet metal out and do a flare job.

You could also sell the Dart and buy a Barracuda or Duster/Demon. They have big enough rear wheel wells for a 10" rim.

The first rim looks like a Chevy rally rim and some people will abject to using that style of rim on a mopar. Just a warning, use what you like. That is what this hobby is all about.

Kesteb is right, 10" is too wide for a stocker. I have 16X8s with 245/45ZR16s (24.7" OD) on my '64 Dart - front and rear - and they fit nicely. Getting the backspacing right is essential so you'll have to make some measurements once your axle is in.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Yeah I had a feeling 10" would be too wide in the back. In that case I'll go 16x8 in the back, and 15x7 in the front, with these tires:
http://www.lesschwab.com/w3lsnet/busine ... 5535B5.asp

I opted out of actual low profile tires and decided on just some wide radials. Probably save myself some money too.

Cool part is the front tires will still be smaller around, so that'll give the car a nice stance. In which case I wouldn't even bother lowering it, which would be nice.

And I also work at Les Schwab, so once my bennies kick in I get a hefty discount.

I actually was leaning towards the first rim style though. Seemed like a closer match to the factory hubcaps on the car now

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Not low profile? That tire only comes in 55 and 50 series - that's definitely low profile. It also doesn't look like a high performance tire - few H rated tires are really meant to be driven hard (the tires on my Dart are Z rated Yokohama AVS Intermediates). That's just as well; you do not want to mix low profile and normal tires. I had run low profile tires on the front of my Dart and the 80-series stockers on the back for a while because the bolt patterns didn't match, and the Dart often felt like it wanted to swap ends. The opposite - regular tires up front and low profile ones on the back - will make your car handle like a pig.

Lou, what backspacing are you using? I'm running 16"x7" American Racing wheels on my Dart with 4 1/4" backspacing and 225/50ZR16 tires. This combination barely clears the ball joints up front, and I had to roll the inner fender lip so the front fenders wouldn't slice the tires when I turned. In the back, I had to use spacers to get them away from the leaf springs. I thought my combination was the largest you could go without flared fenders; how'd you manage to fit bigger?

One other note - all production 8 3/4" rears for A bodies are small bolt pattern, but you can change that with enough $.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

Will other shafts fit the A-body's axle housing or will they be too long?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

You could use B-body axleshafts, I believe, but then you'd have to use the B-body brakes. What's different here is the clearance between the axle flange and where the drum brake backing plate bolts to the housing. My memory is fuzzy, but I think there is 1/4" of difference in this dimension between the A-body and B-body axles. Can somebody back me up on this?

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'68 Dodge Dart 4dr Sedan

Hooooo boy now I'm getting confused...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Some B-Body and most all C-Body axle shafts can be shortened and resplined to fit into the A-Body 8 3/4 housing. You do have to switch to the 10 x 2 1/2 or the larger 11 x 3" "big lug" brake assemblies to accept the new bolt pattern.
DD

Matt,

Regarding tires/wheels on my '64 Dart: I am using wheels made for late '90s Mustangs - 16X8. They have a ton of backspace (5.72"), and I am running some wheel spacers (hub centric) to get them centered in the wells, and there is even a little room for more tire. In the rear I have an 8.75" axle with Moser big bolt axles (3/8" further out on each side than stock SBP axles) and '83 Lincoln rotors (about 1/8" thicker than stock 10X2.5" drums). I am running a 0.3" wheel spacer on the rear. The tires are 245/45ZR16s, 24.7" OD Yokohama AVS Int. They are about 1/4" from the spring on the inside and about 1/2" from the inner fenderwell. If I lowered the rear more dramatically then they would probably just touch the inside of the outer fenderwell, but I have not had any contact, even with large bumps, loading, etc...

I did trim a bit from the front lower lip of the front fender when I had different wheels on there (15X7 with 225/50s and 3.75" backspace) and I did not have to change that - more clearance now, actually. I am running 1/2" of wheel spacer in the front. The rims come close to the upper ball joint, but are comfortably away from it (about 1/8") throughout travel. This probably has a lot to do with the design of the wheel, and could vary for different makes. Note that I also have the 11.75" rotors if that makes any difference. Any 17" rim should clear the ball joints with lots of space.

I can't say why this combo works and yours is tight, but there it is. Let me know if there are any more dimensions I left out that you would like. 4.25" backspace is about right for 7" rims, but I'm not sure how you could hit the springs or the front fender lip with those tires.

Have fun,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

The axles from 1/2 ton trucks will also work.

Ok, so I should be safe with the wheels in the back - there's about 1/4" of clearance between the tires and the rear springs. I'm also running the large discs; our buildups seem to be very similar when it comes to chassis tuning. I had attempted to run a set of Center Lines with a bit more offset, and those looked like they'd clear the ball joint when the car was up on jackstands. But when I put it on the ground, the ball joints carved matching gouges into both my front wheels.

Perhaps the '64 fenders have a little more clearance than the '66 ones?

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

So which would be more cost and time efficient here? Either way I get an 8 3/4 rear axle :p

Getting a B-body axle, just moving the spring pads, and trying to find wheels to fit,

Getting an A-body axle housing and using shafts/brakes from a B-body axle, or...

Getting an A-body axle and putting the B-body brake parts on it so I can have the bigger bolt pattern?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

I know nothing about specific clearances for your car, but don't overlook haveing custom steel wheels made with a rim size and backset that suits your needs. If you don't mind the "Indy" look basic black is standard but you can order them raw , to imron, plate, or powder coat. The basic wheel is cheaper than a cheap "cromey" wheel And there is savings to be had eliminateing spacers and long studs I opted for a set of 5 that maximized what I could do in the front. I've got a 78 d150, 15"x10"s cleared with a little grinding on the calipers, seems like the backset was 4.75", the tires are 295 50s (Hankook Ventus H 101's,good Korean tires). Though I've widened the tubs 2.5" and could fit 14" wide rims back there, this is a dayly driver with a six and I should get allot of miles rotating those 5 radials. noticed your in Washington, check out Willamatte Wheel in Portland Or. after you've "mocked up"( they don"t measure)Hopes this helps you or others looking for not so glitzy performance. Bruce

This website has some great info on exchanges & options thru the years for the 8.75"
http://www.autohobbydigest.com/8_75.html

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Cheers!
Al T