Well today I managed to get some more work done on the Dart.
Rebuilt the junker Holley 1920, but didn't have time to replace the current carb. While it was soaking in carb cleaner I changed the points, rotor and cap on the distributor.

I hit a snag though. When I went to adjust the timing, I couldn't turn the distributor far enough to get it to TDC because the bracket couldn't go far enough. Could this be caused by the age of the timing belt? It's never been changed, but the engine only has 70K miles on it. How hard is it to change a timing belt, if this is the problem? Closest I was able to get the timing was about 2 degrees BTDC (without advancement), so it was at least still acceptable.

Still dies when I gun it into a turn from a dead stop, but I haven't put the good carb on, nor have I changed the ignition wires or coil. With the new distributor stuff on it does run much better though. Just have to get the timing issue fixed and figure out why the dwell won't go any lower than 40 degrees (any tips guys?).

Overall, getting better but still quite a ways to go.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

40 degrees dwell is OK and 2 degrees BTDC is also good. In fact, you my want to try advancing to 4 or even 8 degrees BTDC. Stop advancing and back-off when you hear pinging / spark knock.
DD

dwell is the amount of time, in degrees, that the points are closed. So you need to widen the gap to shorten the dwell. Can't imagine why you can't widen the gap. Have you set them with a feeler gauge? Have you set the dwell meter to 6 cyl.?
There is a bolt underneath the body of the dist. which holds the bracket/plate hold down. If it hasn't already been done, you can loosen the bolt and swivel the plate, so that it will allow you to turn the dist further. The only rub is you have to pull the dist to get at it.

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'66 Cuda 225/4spd
'66 Dart GT convertible 225/auto
'64 Dart GT 340/4spd

There is an adjuster on the other side of the distributor that is preventing you from getting further adjustment. Use a 7/16 crows foot and a long extension (or if you have small hands like me a shorty 7/16 wrench).
You can also convert your dist hold down to a more traditional fork type by pulling one from a van or truck. There is a flat plate that the dist shaft goes thru which the fork clamps down on. MP dist come with this plate adn you can get the hold down off a late model Eagle Talon, open it up a bit and it is perfect.

Yep, used a feeler gauge and then a dwell meter/tach (set to 6 cylinders. even doublechecked ).
I actually did have to pull the dist. to change the points, as the screw isn't in the best condition in the world and I didn't want to mess it up any further. But if the current timing isn't a big deal at all, I may as well leave the timing chain in there. Just to confirm: they're all metal chains aren't they? No plastic parts?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

they are not all metal. The one in my '66 that I took apart, was aluminum and used to have nylon tipped teeth.

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'66 Cuda 225/4spd
'66 Dart GT convertible 225/auto
'64 Dart GT 340/4spd

I had a 68 Valiant. The only thing I really disliked doing to the car was changing points. You could either look at the distributor or get your hands in there. Of course you would drop the screw and have to pull the distributor. Finally I went to the junk yard and got an electronic distributor and wiring. The next stop was the auto parts for a control box and a ballast resistor. I didn't trust those parts from a junk yard. It took a couple of hours to leisurely rewire what I needed to and install it. Look Ma no points!!! The car ran better and no more aggravation.

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Former bent 6 owner
Mark

That's what I suspected

But that's okay, since I've been informed that a timing gear kit for a 340 will bolt on

Now to just find one...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

The 340 timing set will not work on a slant six. A big block crank gear, and chain are the same, but the cam gear is different. For a stock replacement, the Dynagear brand part number 73022 is a all steel gear, and sells for about 22 dollars for the 3 piece set.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

IF YOU WANT TO GET AWAY FROM HAVING TO MESS WITH THE ADJUSTER UNDER THE DISTRIBUTOR GET A NEWER MODEL DISTRIBUTOR I GOT AN 85 FOR 5 BUCKS AND TAKE THE ADJUSTER PLATE OFF THE BOTTOM OF IT .IT'LL GIVE YOU ABOUT 90 DEG OF ADJ

I can't find 73022 anywhere. Who sells it?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

My local Advance auto parts store gave me the part number and price. Any auto parts store should be able to get you a timing set, with a steel cam gear.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Just looked it up. Didn't know it was a chain set
Are their any gear conversions for 225s?

Also, since I'm told it elps a bit to advance an aftermarket cam a degree or two, would that also apply for our stock cams?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me