I have been working on my cousins 72 Duster this weekend. I had to replace 3 of the brake lines that had pin hole leaks. I finally got them all replaced but I am having some trouble bleeding the lines. I have gone through 2 bottles of brake fluid but they are still mushy. Actually you press the pedal once and it goes to the floor. You press it a 2nd and 3rd time and the pedal gets hard. There aren't any other leaks I can find, so what else can it be?? Any help would be appreciated.

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81 1/2 Ton, 2 WD,225, 4 Sp With O/D
81 3/4 Ton, 4 WD, 360, 727
70 1 Ton, 4 WD, 225, 4 Sp

Two things come to mind. First, are the brakes adjusted up well, and if they are, it sounds like it's master cylider time.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Ditto.

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'66 Cuda 225/4spd
'66 Dart GT convertible 225/auto
'64 Dart GT 340/4spd

I just had that same problem with my 74 PowerWagon. It turned out to be two of the adjusters broke and would never properly adjust(go figure). Make sure you look at all the brake hardware while you have the chance. I ended up buying a new booster adn wheel cylinders because of the common local opinion.

Good Luck!

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I'm a 17 year old with a disease called Moparosis. Is there a cure?
1968 Plymouth Barracuda (225/auto)
1966 Dodge Coronet 500 (318/auto)
1974 Dodge W200 PowerWagon (360/auto)
1996 Dodge Neon ACR

One thing I forgot to mention. On the right rear wheel the bleeder screw would not come off so I bled it at the line. Do you think it is possible that air is still trapped in the wheel cylinder and that is what is causing my problem??

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81 1/2 Ton, 2 WD,225, 4 Sp With O/D
81 3/4 Ton, 4 WD, 360, 727
70 1 Ton, 4 WD, 225, 4 Sp

It is very possible. You really need to break the bleeder loose. Some people get kind of carried away, tightening those things up. You know, you're not bolting down the Queen Mary! The bleeders are positioned deliberately at the (local)highest point to bleed the air properly.
Spray it with Mopar-brand heater control valve solvent and rust penetrant, first. Don't get any in your eyes, because it's nasty stuff. Get a good fitting 6-pt end wrench, place it sqarely on the bleeder and give it a sharp rap with the heel of your hand, and it should brake loose. Make sure you're going the correct direction. You might want to remove the bleeder entirely, to inspect it. If they are tightened severely they can collapse the bleeder hole, in which case you'd want to replace it.

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'70 Cuda AAR
'74 Duster 360
'79 MagnumGT
'79 Chrysler 300

once its off put some neverseize on it too!!! I had a similar problem as you do after I replaced my master cylinder. I couldn't get the brakes bled properly. I bench bled the cylinder first too. I had to use a vacum pump bleeder on each bleed screw and pull a lot of fluid through each screw. I had an air bubble deep in one of the lines somewhere, and doing the old brake pedal and buddy method wasn't working. I went through 3 of the small bottles of fluid before I was able to get them working properly. Oh, this was on a 3/4 ton powerwagon so it was some really LONG lines too!

Well I ended up having to change the whole wheel cylinder so I could get a working bleeder screw, but the good news is I finally got it bled and the Duster is back on the road. Thanks for all the help!

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81 1/2 Ton, 2 WD,225, 4 Sp With O/D
81 3/4 Ton, 4 WD, 360, 727
70 1 Ton, 4 WD, 225, 4 Sp